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The building was constructed more than 100 years ago by the Truman Brewery and has, in recent years, been many things, including a pub, a butcher and a fishmongers, before opening last month as the Market House.

The Scene: Recycling and replenishable is the order of the day, so while the building’s original facade has been restored, much of the decor, finishings and furnishings have a vintage feel, too. Cosy, unpretentious and aiming for ‘speakeasy’ charm, it has a short terrace with seating outside, perfect for muggy summer evenings. There’s music at the weekends from DJs and live acts, featuring leftfield reggae, funk, blues, and the odd disco tune.

The grub:
If the decor has been reclaimed, the food too continues this eco-aim, with much of the meat sourced from organic suppliers, the fish sustainably sourced, and the veggies drawn, in large part, from local, independent traders. The Market House Burger is organic Hereford beef (it’s thick and tasty) and The Ultimate Club Sandwich boats free-range chicken with organic parmesan (it’s a less belly-filling option to the burger, but equally enjoyable).

There are also the traditional fish and chips, a roast veg and goat’s cheese tart and a ‘Seriously Good’ steak sandwich, to boot. There are Mediterranean options on the menu, too, including Greek Spanakopita – it’s a light filo pastry, stuffed with ricotta cheese and spinach served with a tzatziki yoghurt dip, although this proved a tad too greasy for our tastes.

Behind the bar: A pub staple assortment of wines, lagers and ales, with organic beers from independent suppliers. Happy hour runs from 5pm-8pm everyday.
Bill please Mains from £7.50; Sunday roasts from £10.50; beers from £3.50; wine by the glass frmo £3.80; beer and burger combos from £8.95.

Verdict: The laidback atmosphere is matched by decent grub and a prime location for watching the world go by – it’s ace for lazy weekend afternoons and chilled-out evenings soaking up some leftfield musical entertainment. Alasdair morton

 433 Coldharbour Lane, SW9 8LN 
Tube | Brixton |

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Market House review: Brixton's new speakeasy bistro, bar and music venue
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