Memories of CIA-sponsored dictators may be fading into the sunset, but few travellers carry on down to this quirky country. Shame, because Panama City is raw and exciting, and the starting point for a must-see traverse along the Canal. The national parks are as good as Costa Rica’s, particularly the Darién wilderness, while the Caribbean islands around Boca del Toro and San Blas are just as inviting as in the days when they were ravaged by British pirates. December-April is the dry season.