Scotland

Other traveller reviews on Scotland

2010-02-08T13:09:00Z

Read Scotland travel reviews by other travellers from our friends at bugbitten.

Hogmanay in Scotland

2009-12-04T11:33:00Z

Get in as soon as you can to snare a ticket for the nefarious 80,000-strong street party on December 31.

See edinburghshogmanay.org.

Glasgow

Rival city Glasgow (winterfestglasgow.com) isn’t content to play second fiddle, and has a party that bashes on through the city centre, with the main celebrations in George Square.

This year you can join crowds of Glaswegians enjoying some of Scotland’s hottest acts, including Tommy Reilly, on the Big Stage, as well as lively ceilidh band Bahookie, and then marvel at the impressive fireworks display.

Stirling

In historic Stirling, it’s mostly locals at the fun festivities set in the dramatic Stirling Castle.

The Party at the Castle (stirlinghogmanay.co.uk) sees the ramparts come alive with the stirring sound of the massed bagpipes and drums, as well as home-grown pop songstress Sandi Thom, X Factor stars The MacDonald Brothers, and Stars In Their Eyes winner Freddie Mercury impersonator Gary Mullen, plus fireworks.

Dundee

Back east in Dundee, no official events have yet been announced, but Hogmanay is always a party night in a city dense with bars and clubs.

The action spins around the centre, with revellers sporting their own drinks and buskers providing the musical accompaniment. Aberdeen

Also on the east coast, the Oil Capital of Europe shakes off its posh moneyed front and lets its hair down for the big night.

Aberdeen’s Winter Festival Hogmanay (aberdeencity.gov.uk/hogmanay) culminates with two spectacular fireworks displays – one at the Castlegate and another in Union Terrace Gardens.

The ticketed street party of recent years has been swapped for a series of community-based events as part of an attempt to get back to the Hogmanay spirit of old.

Inverness

The party is set to go off with a serious bang in Inverness, Scotland’s most northerly city.

Hogmanay – Red Hot Highland Fling (invernessfestivals.com) brings the Inverness Winter Festival to a close in Northern Meeting Park Arena with the effervescent Red Hot Chili Pipers, Blazin’ Fiddles and Peatbog Faeries.

These frenetic bands turn traditional Celtic music on its head to create a pumping beat, which will keep Highlanders and visitors lucky enough to be in town partying into 2010.

Elsewhere in Scotland

Even outside the cities the New Year’s Eve party bashes on into 2010, and it is not for nothing that Scotland always needs an extra day of holiday at this time of year.

If you’re in the spirit (having plenty of the local liquid helps), and fancy yourself as a hardy Scottish Hogmanay partygoer, then fling yourself the next morning into the
chilly waters at the Loony Dook in South Queensferry, just outside Edinburgh, or join the madcap locals doing the same in Broughty Ferry on the fringes of Dundee.

Music in Glasgow, Scotland

2009-11-13T12:05:00Z

Wanting to experience a little bit of its rock history, I headed to King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut, a well-known destination for rock stars on the arduous journey to the top – it was within King Tut’s walls that Britpop legends Oasis were signed, after they played a gig there.

The intimate space is heaving as up-and-comers Mumford & Sons take to the stage.

Dancing in a sweaty, dark room with hundreds of strangers and the smell of spilt beer reminds me of my uni days.

And I’m loving every second of it. A follow-up search on the band’s MySpace page reveals every one of their forthcoming UK gigs is sold out. It seems they’ve been blessed with King Tut’s magic kiss.

Another legendary venue is The Arches. The massive subterranean space is host to tons of gigs, while clubbers rejoice at its Death Disco night, an event locals rave about.

Glasgow embraces all genres of music, from contemporary to classical to country. It’s no surprise, then, that it was named Unesco City of Music last year.

Moving forward and the city is bringing together some of Scotland’s finest musicians to perform under one roof with Homecoming Live – The Final Fling on November 28.

The indoor festival, part of St Andrew’s Weekend, is another example of the city’s passion for Scotland’s thriving music scene. Names performing include The View, The Vaselines and Orange Unsigned Act winner Tommy Reilly.

Forget fried Mars bars and throw away any rough and tumble preconceptions. Glasgow is all about rocking out. Yes, it really is the city of music.

» Natasha Vuckovic travelled with Visit Scotland. For information and accommodation phone 0845 225 5121

More than music

While Glasgow’s nightlife is great, it’s not too shabby during the day either. A city that embraces art in all its forms, check out its more creative vibe.

Art school

Designed by one of Glasgow’s most renowned designers, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Glasgow School of Art is considered one of the most influential structures of the 20th century. Take
a tour to find out about the quirky architect and his lateral way of thinking.

Big mack

Mackintosh put his stamp on many Glasgow landmarks, including the Martyrs’ School, the Mackintosh Church and the Scotland Street School Museum. The Mackintosh hop-on, hop-off bus tour reveals more about his life and work. See citysightseeingglasgow.co.uk

Dining out

Glasgow is packed with great restaurants. If seafood’s your thing try Two Fat Ladies (118A Blythswood St) or man up and sample some haggis (it’s nice, honest) at Guy’s Restaurant (24 Candleriggs), a cosy and relaxed affair that uses the best Scottish produce.

Fashion house

Fashion fans should head for Che Camille. Part shop, part workshop, designers use the space to create while shoppers can indulge in quirky, one-off products. Che Camille is in shopping mecca Buchanan Street, where you’ll also find all your high street favourites.

Warehouse sale

Newly opened in an Edwardian warehouse, art centre 103 Trongate is the place to buy, view and participate in art. There are some great exhibitions that cover a wide range of styles from photography to kinetic sculpture.

Visiting the Scottish Borders

2009-08-21T10:29:00Z

Country houses to visit

If Clapton did decide to live in the Borders he’d be in good company. For country living on a grand scale it seems to be the place, with many a stately mansion in the area.

The largest of these, and in fact in the UK, is Floors Castle near Kelso, which is home to the 10th Duke of Roxburgh and also an impressive fine art collection, worth millions of pounds.

Traquair House, south of Innerleithen, has a more intriguing history, and its visitors have included Mary Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie. If you’re suffering from fact overload, the house has its own brewery, so you can get a quick refresher tasting its home-brewed ale.

Sir Walter Scott

Of all the famous names to have inhabited the region, Sir Walter Scott is most revered by the Scots, largely thanks to his influence in reviving Scottish culture and history.

The writer’s home, Abbotsford, is filled with Scott’s quirky collections, including Napoleon’s notebook, a knife belonging to Rob Roy and a quarter of an oatcake found on a Highlander at a battle site.

But to grasp what it felt like rambling the hills that so inspired Scott, head to Smailholm Tower (main image). Climb the old stone building and between the rocky outcrops and herds of cows, you’ll be rewarded with views stretching north over Scotland and south to England.

Ancient abbeys

During medieval times, the prosperous communities built around the four wealthy abbeys in the Scottish Borders were the main targets of raids by the English, which plagued the area for centuries.

Despite now being empty shells, Jedburgh, Kelso, Melrose and Dryburgh Abbeys are still spectacular sights. One way to see them and explore the area is to walk the Borders Abbeys Way – a circular route of 103km, which passes through many picturesque Borders towns.

Home to Rugby Sevens

One of these towns is Melrose, in which Rugby Sevens was founded in the late 19th century by a local butcher’s apprentice.

On a tour of Melrose Rugby Heritage Centre, my guide Pete points out the influence the sport has had around the world. Real fans should visit in mid-April, he says, when the town is taken over by its week-long competition.

When learning I’m South African Pete is quick to add the Johannesburg University team were last year’s victors. Perhaps the battles in Borders are not over yet, but have merely moved from the countryside to the rugby pitch.

Tracing your Scottish ancestors

Many of us may not be in the UK if it weren’t for our British ancestry. If you’d like to find out if your rellies were from the Scottish Borders, pop into the Heritage Hub in Hawick.

The Hub’s archives date back 750 years, and the friendly staff will be happy to help you get started tracing your family tree.

» Janine Jorgensen travelled with Back To The Borders and National Express East Coast.

Mountain biking in scotland

2009-08-07T13:22:00Z

Welcome to mountain biking in Scotland – a country that well deserves its growing reputation as the world’s number one mountain biking destination.

Glentress is the perfect introduction to Scottish mountain biking.

I pitch up at the centre’s The Hub In The Forest and tuck into some heart-starting coffee and freshly baked goods as the staff fill me in on all the various routes on offer.

Then it’s off to their gear store – they rent and sell gear too – to get kitted out for the thrill ride.

Red-eye flight

I choose the red route as the black run looks too insane and I want more of a challenge than the green and blue routes.

For those looking to brush up on their skills beforehand, The Hub offers coaching and you can warm up on the Skills Loop. For serious bikers the Free Ride Park comes with a warning: “body armour is seriously recommended”.

The red route starts with an epic haul uphill through the forest, but the effort is worth it as the views open up.

Pennel’s Vennel is the first stretch of single-track downhill, loose and rocky, but it’s just a warm-up for the challenges of Spooky Wood, which kick off with three mighty drop-offs and push on into a dozen 180-degree bends, 18 jumps and 17 tabletops.

Like many routes in Scotland, the red at Glentress has a number of options so you can pedal around the toughest sections and duck out of some of the climbs.

My journey takes me flashing through tight single-track woodland where wet roots across the track and narrow gaps between the trees have my head spinning, and also across a tricky raised wooden section.

Then there are the hulking rocks that have to be banged over, leapt across or avoided at all costs.

Just under two hours after I left The Hub’s café I am back, a sweaty, adrenaline-pumping mess of dirt and smiles.

The red route here offers seriously testing mountain biking, and after a morning slapping down it the afternoon awaits with the choice of tackling that black route or one of the relatively easier routes.

The biking of scotland

Glentress is typical of the experience on offer at the mountain biking centres now springing up all over a country made for mountain biking, with its phalanx of unspoilt mountain landscapes.

It is one of the Seven Stanes – a network set up by the Forestry Commission.

Indeed Scotland recently usurped Canada as the world’s number one mountain biking destination, according to an International Mountain Bike Association people’s poll.

Since 2002 Fort William in the Highlands has been holding rounds of the Mountain Bike World Cup and it has also hosted the UCI Mountain Bike World Cup series, the most prestigious
and extreme competition in the mountain biking calendar.

Scotland is certainly not resting on its mountain biking laurels, though, with centres constantly upgrading their facilities and new runs being developed all the time.

There are the aforementioned world famous downhills at Fort William, and a 3km fire road climb and its myriad obstacles, including huge drop-offs, boulder fields, rock slabs and stone staircases, with the nefarious names of sections – Two Ton Drop and Surgeon’s Slab – giving you an idea
of the difficulty involved.

Whether you’re seriously into your mountain biking or just want to try it out for the first time in a user-friendly environment – and enjoy some epic scenery while you’re at it – forget about jetting off to Europe or Canada and take part in the world class mountain biking on your doorstep.

There’s a wealth of biking centres in Scotland to choose from, as well as endless opportunities for going out on a bike on your own and losing yourself in the wilds.

Cycle Europe: More routes to try

England

Almost £1 million has been invested to bring the Dalby Forest visitor centre up to scratch and improve mountain biking facilities in this gorgeous woodland forest in Yorkshire.

Purple Mountain is what a biking centre should be.

There is a wide choice of routes, from beginner greens and blues, to more technical red runs and, for adrenaline junkies, crazy black runs.

As well as hiring bikes the centre also has a bike shop, with all the kit you could ever require, and a café stocked with the needs of hungry bikers in mind.

» See purplemountain.co.uk.

Slovenia

With some of the most spectacular mountains in Europe, Slovenia is perfectly set up for biking.

The Mountain Bike Park at Crna na Koroskem was set up in 1995 and boasts a dozen fairly wild trails, with GPS on hand to keep you on the right track.

Many trails link into longer adventures, and they have a hotel, bike hire, bike wash and repair shop on site.

» See mtbpark.com

norway

Mountainous Norway is an awesome biking destination, and at Hafjell Bike Park they have shown how mountain biking can make up for a decline in ski business.

Mountain biking is really emerging here, with decent facilities, a range of rides available and plenty of lifts, gondolas and the tempting Afterbike Pub.

» See hafjell.no

France

The mountain biking oasis of Les Gets Bike Park is set in some stunning French Alpine scenery.

As well as lessons, bike repair and bike washing, there are a whopping 650km of trails to explore in the region, with ski lifts handy for getting up the tough ascents and letting you enjoy the downhills more.

» See paradisvtt.fr

Germany

The Black Forest is home to Bikepark Bad Wildbad, which hosts the German Downhill Championship.

They are well set up with coaching, a bike shop, mountain railways and cable cars on hand.

There are eight trails on the site, ranging from easy to difficult.

» See bikepark-bad-wildbad.de

Gear Box

Hat's the way

Some bikers joke that a good helmet is even more essential than a bike.

Always get one that fits properly and is made specifically for mountain biking.

Even after a small impact that shows no visible signs of damage, you should still get your helmet checked out.

On your bike

When it comes to a bike the choice is either hard-tail or dual-suspension.

Hard tail bikes, with only front suspension, are fine for most trails, but on tough reds and blacks, as well as skill tricks, dual-suspension bikes come into their own.

Prices range from a few hundred pounds to thousands, so hiring is a good option if you won’t be doing much cycling afterwards.

It is also essential to get a frame that fits your body size. Go to a specialist shop so they can help you out.

Take a brake

On the brake front, forget brakes that you normally get on road bikes and opt for disc brakes instead.

They offer a lot more control and you don’t have piles of wires getting in the way.

As with a lot of mountain biking gear, once you have tried them out you won’t go back to the cheaper options.

Wear and tear

When it comes to what to wear most riders won’t need body armour for the easier trails, but it does offer protection and is essential on the serious black downhills – some centres won’t allow you on without it.

Otherwise a light, breathable base layer is essential, and waterproofs are always handy in the UK.

The Gathering

2009-07-10T16:25:00Z

What: A huge weekend of events aimed at bringing Scots together from all over the world. There’s Scottish food, drink and music, a huge parade, and the bizarre, unique athletic events of the Highland Games.

Where: Edinburgh, Scotland.

When: July 25-26.

Why: It’s part of Homecoming Scotland – the year-long celebrations of all things Scottish, marking the 250th anniversary of the birth of the nation’s much-loved poet Robert Burns.

Do it because: There’s far more to Scotland than haggis and whisky.

How much: From £15.

See clangathering.org

Camping in Scotland

2009-06-08T09:54:00Z

Best for walkers

Red Squirrel

Tucked spectacularly into one of Scotland’s famous glens, Glencoe, this campsite boasts vertiginous mountains on all sides. There are dozens of walks to choose from, with trails to suit all levels as well as world-class technical climbing. More sedentary souls can enjoy the mountains rearing up in front of the site.
» redsquirrelcampsite.com

Beinglas

If you fancy tackling Scotland’s well-known long distance trail the West Highland Way, or even just taking on a section of it, then Beinglas is an ideal base. The trail skirts right past the campsite and you can stock up on hiking supplies here as well as meet fellow walkers.
» beinglascampsite.co.uk

Best for something different

Faichemard

If you want to avoid the risk of running into families on your camping getaway, head just north of Loch Ness to Scotland’s adult-only site. Here you can pick a pitch on heather-covered ground surrounded by forest, and enjoy a sundowner on a picnic table handily provided at every site.
» faichemard-caravancamping.co.uk

Lazy Duck

For quirky cool, Lazy Duck is the place. The moniker emanates from the resident Aylesbury ducks, so lazy they can’t be bothered to hatch their own eggs. Humans tend to feel similarly relaxed here with hammocks in the heather, a Tarzan swing, sauna, and outdoor ‘bush shower’, which hints more of Africa than the Highlands.
» lazyduck.co.uk

Best for adventure sports

Grandtully

Near the banks of Scotland’s largest river, the mighty Tay, in Perthshire, this site is run by the Scottish Canoe Association and is perfect for those wanting to seek out the thrills of a river kayak ride, go whitewater rafting or enjoy a whole host of other watery excitement, with local specialist companies on hand to organise it all for you.
» canoescotland.com

Rothiemurchus

From this site, venture into the nearby Cairngorms where numerous high-level walks await – but beware, as these are serious mountains, not just weekend hills. There is mountain biking on the forest trails and mountain slopes, as well as kakaying and sailing on Loch Morlich.
» Phone 01479 812800

Best for beaches

Invercaimbe

Some of the finest sunsets in Europe can be viewed from the beach here. Enjoy the fiery oranges and reds as they melt over the Small Isles and the shimmering Atlantic Ocean, and feel as though you’re at the end of the world. You pretty much are.
» invercaimbecaravansite.co.uk

Sands Holiday Centre

One of the larger and more commercial camps in the Highlands just north of Gairloch, but as the name suggests it offers beach galore where you can enjoy a second childhood among dunes and Atlantic surf, with gorgeous views out to the isles.
» sandsholidaycentre.co.uk

Best for views

Applecross

With epic views across the Isle of Skye, the sunsets here are spectacular. If you are tight on cash you can camp free of charge right by the beach. Don’t miss a pint and a seafood feast at legendary Applecross Inn.
» applecross.uk.com/campsite

Badrallach

The family who own Badrallach, the Stotts, proclaim their paradise is “a truly timeless place”. The sea loch and mountain views are sublime – unchanged for centuries since the days when the clans roamed the glens. It does take a bit of effort rumbling down a rough track to get here, but it is more than worth it.
» badrallach.com

» Cool Camping Scotland is in bookshops across the UK now. It can also be bought at a reduced rate through robinmckelvie.com.

Fort William Mountain Festival

2009-02-06T16:51:00Z

What: The Fort William Mountain Festival

Where: Fort William, Scotland

When: March 6-14

A new festival devoted to all things mountainous: climbing, kayaking, and even skiing.

There will be workshops, films and guided trips.

See www.mountainfestival.co.uk

Climbing Ben Nevis

2009-01-08T13:44:00Z

Every year, there’s a handful of deaths on Ben Nevis and the grand, spectacular range around Fort William in Scotland’s Western Highlands, including the spur we’re climbing, known as Carn Dearg.

It’s a small risk when you consider 110,000 people ascend the 1344m peak every year — although that’s mainly in summer.

During winter and spring, the peak is for experienced climbers only (or amateurs like me under the expert watch of a guide), and you’ll need a fine day and all the hardcore climbing gear you can find for an assault on the summit: crampons, ice axes, safety ropes, plenty of sub-zero clothing and a swag of emergency supplies.

And it ain’t easy. At one point, after four hours of slogging steeply uphill through snow-filled gullies and around icy buttresses, we hit a narrow ridge that marks the final stage of the assault on the summit.

I find myself staring rigidly at my feet, nervously taking one step at a time and trying desperately to ignore the yawning drop barely a metre away to the left and to the right. I’m roped to Pescod and TNT photographer Brendon Bishop, but that doesn’t stop the feeling that one missed step could be fatal.

“A lot of very good climbers can’t stand heights — they just never look down,” says Pescod, when I tell him he’s bloody nuts for dragging me up this high.

After what seems an eternity, the ledge opens up and I find myself abruptly at the summit. It’s a colourless world of grey rock and white snow — stark, harsh, beautiful.

For a few brief minutes the view is incredible — then white-out conditions return as the next snow-laden cloud engulfs us.

From the summit, it’s an easier two-hour trek down the opposite face of Carn Dearg, first through snow and then, lower, across haunting moorland crisscrossed with snow-melt streams, where we spot red deer.

Carn Dearg is just one of dozens of routes on and around Ben Nevis in the Fort William area, which Pescod describes as a ‘world class’ mountaineering destination. Fort William is also the home of modern ice climbing, where athletes use pronged boots and two ice axes to scale towering vertical ice walls and frozen waterfalls.

There are dozens of guides who can take you on a hell of an expedition, whether it’s for a day or a week, and whether you’re into mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing, scrambling or hiking. Just make sure to check on the avalanche danger rating — remember, it only goes up to five!

On the ice wall

Not far from Fort William is the Ice Factor — the world’s largest indoor ice climbing wall. Here are five reasons to give it a go:

1. It’s indoors, so if it’s bloody awful outside you’ve still got somewhere to have some fun.

2. The walls look impossible to scale. So when you get to the top, it’s damn satisfying.

3. You get to wield weapons like ice axes and ice boots. Grrr!

4. There are different routes with various difficulty levels so you can start easy and move up.

5. Although you’re roped in it’s still daunting climbing a vertical wall with only your boots and axes — so it’s guaranteed to get the adrenaline racing.

Beginner lessons start from £45 (01855-831 100; www.ice-factor.co.uk).

» Trevor Paddenburg travelled to Fort William courtesy of Visit Scotland (0845-2255 121). A one-day guided course with Abacus Mountaineering (01397-772466) costs £170.

Shetland Islands Viking Festival

2008-12-13T11:51:00Z

For the festival, the town’s men grow beards and dress as savage Vikings for a torch-lit parade through the streets in the early evening.

It’s a hell of a spectacle, with 2000-odd participants in fancy dress backed up by bagpipes and marching bands playing stirring renditions of local songs.

The climax of the night is when a huge, ornate wooden Norse longboat is set alight, making a giant bonfire in the town’s central park — a tradition dating back to 3000 years ago when a Viking king died and his body was placed in a longship and set alight.

After that, it’s back to one of a dozen venues around town, such as the Grand Hotel, for a 24-hour whisky-fuelled party where different squads from the parade perform skits, songs and shows.

If you’re still standing at first light, don’t be surprised if while you’re walking back to the hostel you get invited into people’s homes to continue the party — and the whisky drinking.

We found ourselves having a liquid breakfast with a bunch of hilarious kilt-wearing bagpipe players from the neighbouring Orkney Islands.

Up Helly Aa is a lot more than a booze-up, though.

It’s a damn fine spectacle and a monster of a party set in a rugged, stunning part of the world, and it eclipses Christmas or New Year’s Eve as the biggest day on the calendar on the Shetland Islands.

What’s more, it’s probably Shetland’s best kept secret, loaded with authenticity because it’s organised by the locals, for the locals.

What you won’t find is a sea of Aussies, Kiwis and Saffas like at other festivals such as La Tomatina or Oktoberfest.

“Aye, it’s not promoted as a tourist festival,” says Shetlander Stephen Mouat, who will lead the parade as the Jarl (or Viking king) in 2009.

“It’s very much a local festival. Of course, we won’t turn anyone away if they want to come and see what it’s all about.”

In fact, we learned how much of a novelty visitors were when our trip in 2008 (the first organised tour to visit Shetland for the festival) rated a mention in the local paper.

And one of my most memorable experiences was meeting an 80-year-old local who insisted on buying me three pints because I was the first Aussie he’d ever met.

It might not be as wild as a good bout of pillaging, but a jaunt to Shetland for Up Helly Aa comes pretty close, and there’s every chance it’ll go down as your most memorable festival yet.

» Trevor Paddenburg travelled with Haggis Adventures (0131-557 9393; www.haggisadventures.com). An all-inclusive five-day Up Helly Aa festival package costs £449.

Light it up

What is it with the Scots and burning stuff?

It’s not just Up Helly Aa — plenty of their other festivals revolve around pyromania.

» Ancient Fireballs Ceremony, Stonehaven

A unique Hogmanay festival, where at the strike of midnight locals walk through the town swinging mesh and paraffin fireballs above their heads.

» Saint Ronan’s Games, Innerleithan

Locals cart a figure of the devil up a hill and toss it on a bonfire.

» Wickerman Festival, Kirkcudbright

The event’s finale sees the burning of a 25ft tall man made of wicker.

» Hogmanay Torchlight Procession, Edinburgh

Grab a flaming torch and join the throng as a Viking ship gets carried up Calton Hill.

Hogmanay

2008-11-28T17:39:00Z

What: Hogmanay

Where: Edinburgh, Scotland

When: December 31

Just like carrots and peas, rum and Coke, and Posh and Becks — Edinburgh and a giant New Year’s party seem to go together quite nicely.

While the origins of the word Hogmanay are shrouded in mystery (it’s basically a traditional Scottish term for New Year’s Eve) in today’s language it has come to symbolise the mother of all celebrations.

There are parties throughout Scotland, but the biggest is in Edinburgh.

It’s now so massive it has become a full-on organised event (not unlike a one-day music festival) for which you have to buy a ticket.

While that’s a hassle, the upside is there’ll be plenty of stuff to see and do.

A £10 ticket gets you entry and entertainment from Glasvegas and Hot Chip, while for £37.50 you can see Groove Armada and Paolo Nutini.

There are also separate events for families, and fans of ’70s disco, and for those that want a (slightly) more traditional shindig, the Glayva Ceilidh in the Gardens features Celtic music with a twist.

See www.edinburghshogmanay.org

Gairloch lighthouse

2008-11-05T17:07:23Z

Anyone visiting the north-west coast of Scotland should stay in the Rua Reidh Lighthouse near Gairloch (01445-771 263; ruareidh@tiscali.co.uk).

It's a fabulous old building that has been converted into an intimate B&B at the end of a one-horse track. Beds in the small dorm start from £10 a night, but there are double and family rooms available as well, priced from £32 per room per night.

Scotland - Ryan Astle

2008-09-10T16:10:40Z

Travel Writing Awards Entry

Sure enough come the morning of the 31st of December I had a pounding headache. I remember conversing with someone the night before about meeting at 11am in order to have a drink to celebrate the NZ New Year. What a ludicrous idea.

I slept well passed 11am, and awoke to a call from my mates back in NZ. I’m fairly sure that they’d be drinking. I can’t be sure, but I’ll let you judge for yourselves. This was my mate Ricks conversation with me ‘How the hell are ya?, No seriously, how the hell are ya? No seriously, how the hell are ya? No seriously, how the hell are ya?’ This sentence was repeated a good 20 times, each time Rick stressing a different word in the sentence. By this time I had got up, got changed and was walking through the streets of Edinburgh to find a pub. I’m not sure Rick was satisfied with my answers of ‘good’, ‘yeah good’, and ‘what more do you want from me?’ I could tell he was only going to pass the phone on to my mates if he heard some excitement from me. So whilst walking down the main street of Edinburgh in a hung over state passing by hundreds and thousands of people I started yelling at my phone that I was “f*cking good”. Bizarre, as was the rest of the conversation. I got a bit homesick; it would have been to catch up with all the boys.

When I finished my call we had walked all the way into town and found a café to stock up on stodge to line the stomach. Simon and Joel started drinking early, I thought about it, but thought that there’d be a good chance I’d fall asleep in my pint and not wake til the following year.

Later in the arvo we cranked a few tunes and sank a few brews back at Bevan’s flat. That got us in the mood for the night's festivities. Nic and I had tickets to the concert in the park, so we went to that while the others went to the street party. Nic and I found that the best place to see the concert would be from half way up a hill on a footpath. This turned out to be a great place to stand, not only did we have a good view of the stage, but we also had front row seats for the mud slip and slide. What I mean by this is that people were trying to walk up the bank which was incredibly muddy and slippery and were arsing over left, right and centre. It was hilarious. A group of guys on the hill were killing themselves laughing. 30 people or more must have fallen over. The best of the night was a guy who didn’t see the short chain fence, clipped it with his foot and went flying down head first. Oh, how I laughed.

The two bands we saw were local Scottish band Idlewild and Brit band Kasabian. Both were brilliant. Nic is a huge fan of Idlewild so was stoked to see them live. As soon as Kasabian had finished we thought we’d go find Jaimee and Joel to spend the countdown with them. That turned out to be impossible as the street literally has close to a million people on it. We watched the fireworks, fired from the top of the castle which was amazing, and found Jaimee and Joel shortly afterwards.

The rest of the night is a bit of a blur. I do remember one bit, well mostly through people’s stories recounted the next day. In a bar I grabbed a pillow off a couch and put it under my top imitating a fat person. I then went on to the dance floor with Joel, he was fake punching me in the stomach when we looked across the dance floor and saw a guy with a beard who looked like Jesus, he looked like he wanted to join in so I said ‘punch me Jesus, punch me’. And so it came to pass that in the first few hours of 2008 I was on a dance floor in Edinburgh looking like a fat bloke being punched by Jesus. Almost as weird as the year I was tossing apples into a basin full of urine but that’s a different story.

Highlands Trip

2008-08-26T16:44:48Z

If you dont have a lot of time to visit the country, I reccomend a 3-days trip around the Highlands. They are the heart of Scotland, and I think it's something not to be missed. The landscape is always amazing (postcard-amazing!), and in a short time it's possible to see a lot.

I bought a 3-days trip that started from Edinburgh, to Stirling, Perth, Forth Williams and Loch Ness. The coach took frequent stops, so you don't really feel the long drive, and you see so many amazing new things that you forget about the travelling! Usually the guides are very nice and funny Scots, and it's also a good opportunity to make some new friends since usually the people who take these trips are in their 20s...

Do bring an umbrella!

Eating haggis in Edinburgh

2008-07-09T10:54:00Z

After all, I'd come to Edinburgh to sample all things Scottish, and haggis at British pub grub eatery Monster Mash was at the top of my list.

In fact, a night later, I ordered another platter of haggis, this time at the cosy White Heart Inn, just to make sure I'd managed to get a good dose of it into me.

The verdict? Damn tasty, I have to admit, full of flavour with a nutty texture - kind of like peppery mince and not half as puke-inducing as it sounds on the page of a recipe book.

You might argue that just about anything will taste good after a big day of traipsing around Edinburgh's hills and gullies, taking in the atmospheric sights from the Royal Mile to Calton Hill, Arthur's Seat and Princes Street (see sidebar).

To make sure I wasn't dreaming, I asked a few locals their thoughts on the regional speciality.

"Aye, I like it," a Scot by the name of Dougie told me, as we sheltered from a rain squall on the Royal Mile. "It's delicious with a nice gravy. I eat it about once a week."

A day later when I ducked into a supermarket, the old gent in front of me at the checkout was buying a pre-made frozen haggis, neeps and tatties meal.

Again, I got the same response when I asked if it was any good. "Aye, it's damn tasty," he said. "The wife used to cook it every Sunday, but now it's just me, so I get the frozen ones."

What most visitors don't realise, though, is that while the Scots claim haggis for their own, chances are it was actually first made by the ancient Greeks. A primitive haggis recipe is referred to in Homer's Odyssey. Odysseus is likened to "a man before a great blazing fire turning swiftly this way and that a stomach full of fat and blood, very eager to have it roasted quickly".

And, originally, back in the mists of time, it certainly wasn't the gourmet dish you might now be served in a hearth-warmed Edinburgh pub. In fact it only became popular out of necessity, when starving farmers and villagers used every bit of flesh and scrap of meat they could get their mitts on - which is how all those, er, rather interesting ingredients became a part of Scottish tradition.

If you're not a carnivore, don't despair. Haggis even comes in a veggie version, so there's no excuse not to sample a piping hot plate of the meaty (or non-meaty) dish after a big day out in the friendly and dramatic Scottish capital.

» Trevor Paddenburg travelled to Edinburgh with Visit Scotland and their Adventure Passport promotion (0845-2255 121; www.visitscotland.com).

Pound the pavement

Haggis ain't the healthiest dish, so put on your walking shoes and work off the calories with a wander around Edinburgh's city centre. There's loads to see.

» Edinburgh Castle
Scotland's most famous castle seems to grow straight out of the rock and looms over the city with a big, brooding presence. The flaming torches and statues of Robert the Bruce and William Wallace at the entrance are a nice touch.

» The Royal Mile
Loaded with tacky tourist shops selling countless kilts, the Royal Mile also has cool whiskey distilleries, cosy pubs and cobblestones, ensuring it still oozes character.

» Princes Street
There's world-class shopping on one side of this road artery with wicked views across to the Princes Street Gardens, Edinburgh Castle and skyline on the opposite side of the road.

» Calton Hil
Rising dramatically from the end of Princes Street, Calton Hill is loaded with 19th century memorials and offers a superb panorama over the city.