26 Ganton Street, W1F 7QZ
Tube: Oxford Circus
The scene: My dining pal and I happen upon this unassuming little place when caught in Carnaby Street in teeming rain. We drip-dry in a booth opposite a bar – Mother Mash has made functional use of a narrow, brightly lit dining room. The place wafts with the quiet chatter of both tourists and locals and the menu extends only to steamy piles of customised comfort food (you choose your mash, bangers or pie, gravy and sides).
The grub: Hearty British bangers or pie and mash – the epitome of simplicity. Our pies are an ample parcel of steak and ale, flaky pastry upon a puddle of rich, red wine gravy. The mound of buttery, whipped potatoes is the standout, though. The liquor gravy stirs memories of my partner’s youth … and he’s suitably impressed. His wasabi mash puts a bite on his fork, too. We leave stuffed and dry.
Behind the bar: Bottled beer and boutique juices from £2.
Bill please: Two pies with the trimmings and drinks cost £13. Cheap eats.
Verdict: Genuinely friendly staff complete the package in this comforting establishment.
– Rebecca Kent