Opened in March, over a coffee shop in Leman Locke, the dynamic restaurant and bar is headed by executive chef George Tannock of The Dorchester, The Fat Duck, The Capital and The Greenhouse fame. His philosophy is to serve only fresh quality food, prepared using local, organic and where possible responsibly-sourced, seasonal ingredients.
Often the greeting sets the tone for the dining experience. Having been led to my seat, the Lithuanian mixologist quickly forgot the cocktail menu and discussed options. We settled upon something sour with a rum base. Soon a daiquiri was placed in front of me. Refreshing yet with none of the sickly sweet taste of so many cocked creations, it carried a powerful kick – there was nothing mock about this.
First, I had a small starter – more an amuse bouche – of poponcini peppers that had a pleasant residual spicy bite. Served in a yellow saffron aioli sauce, it amused my bouche well. However, contemplating at the spectacular red pesto arancini rice balls given a charcoal black coating on the opposite table, I may have erred in my choice.
No such misgivings concerned my actual starter; a scallop and seabass ceviche, with peas and a Minus 8 verjus. The scallops were sourced from the Orkneys and served in a mescal sauce, which did not overwhelm the freshness of the seafood, yet provided a welcome slightly sweet afterthought. The slices of radish added a crispness to the meal that was an added bonus to texture obsessives like myself.
Brill credit: Mark Bibby Jackson
For my main I opted for the latest addition to the menu, a brill served with white sprouting broccoli, baby artichoke and a seaweed hollandaise sauce. The fish was cooked to perfection falling nicely off the fork and the white sprouting broccoli was a wonderful touch. However, not being a fan of hollandaise I found that the addition of spinach failed to convert me to the sauce. This I washed down with a glass of Mount Franklin Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand; excellent, crisp and fruity it complimented the fish well.
As a chocoholic, I looked no further than the vairhona chocolate with tarocco orange and pistachio dessert. The excellent rich chocolate lay on a superb crunchy biscuit base, served with a crisp brittle and a soothing pistachio ice cream. Once more the mix of textures worked well, but perhaps the dessert could have benefitted from something sharp to juxtapose the sweetness, but that’s nick picking.
Treyes & Hyde credit: Mark Bibby Jackson
Treyes & Hyde seats 35 to 40 and has a Scandinavian feel with light woods and soft colours creating a laid back vibe. On this visit the clientele was young, and the service impeccable and friendly. It’s certainly well worth a return visit.
Need to Know:
Treyes & Hyde
15/17 Leman Street
Tel: 0203 621 8900