The scene Picture this: you’re wandering along the winding cobbled streets of a quaint Italian town on a balmy summer’s evening, when you happen upon a traditional trattoria. Well, Trullo isn’t quite that, it’s on the busy St Paul’s Road in Highbury, but it’s almost how you feel once you get inside.

Its decor is simplistic, with dark-wooden flooring, chairs and tables contrasting with brilliant-white tablecloths. There’s low-hung lighting creating a warm ambience as well as huge windows looking out on to the busy street outside.

With no more than 15 tables (there’s also a small dining area downstairs for when it’s busy), it’s a cosy affair, with aromas from freshly made food wafting from the open kitchen. 

The grub The menu changes daily, focusing on Italian-inspired, seasonal cuisine. The pasta is fresh, rolled minutes before being served to your table, while the meats and fish are cooked over burning coals.

To start, I order a bowl of chunky, slimy tagliatelle with violetta artichokes and Amalfi lemon. It’s impossible not to eat the lot, despite it being enough for a main. My dinner guest’s glossy-looking pappardelle with beef shin ragu is equally impressive.

Next up is burrata, Castelluccio lentils, agretti and spicy tomato sauce. There’s no tiny a la carte portions here. No fancy swirls on the plate. It’s all about the food; creamy, melt-in-the-mouth soft mozzarella, with lentils cooked in a tangy-rich tomato sauce.

My meat-eating friend is far from complaining about his perfectly pink-in-the-middle Black Hampshire pork chop, served with baked borlotti beans and salsa verde. We finish off the evening with a dollop of faultless salted caramel ice cream. 

Behind the bar An extensive list of wines from all across Italy, plus some Italian-inspired cocktails (Trullo Sbagliato is Campari, quince, orange bitters and prosecco).

Bill please Wines from £4.50/ £19.50 per glass/ bottle; cocktails from £8; beer from £4. Antipasti from £7.50; primi from £8; mains from £14; dessert from £4.50.

Verdict The food is sublime – arrive hungry. 

300-302 St Paul’s Road, N1 2LH  
Tube | Highbury & Islington