The scene It seems word hasn’t quite got out, however, as there’s only one other table occupied and a cleaner is catching up on the vaccuming when I arrive at the prime brunch time of 12pm.

The setting is typical Hilton – contemporary but a little too formatted and functional. Our fellow diners are, predictably, suits quaffing vinos over their cooked breakfasts.

The grub The new a la carte menu throws up a few surprises – I’m not sure roast beef and Yorkshire pudding quite belongs next to the more traditional items, such as eggs benedict.

My date and I decide to throw ourselves into the experimental mood, however, and order a trio of tasters – tandoori scallops, salt and pepper squid, and the more brunch-appropriate grilled mushrooms filled with feta, sunblush tomatoes and spinach.

The scallops prove oddly addictive – probably the result of my tastebuds’ confusion, as they try to marry the texture to a well-known flavour more easily associated with chicken.

But I’m overwhelmed by the rich notes in the mushrooms, as a stack of caramelised onions threatens to overpower everything. (My date, an avid supporter of caramelised onions, loves the dish.)

The standout is the squid, which deftly avoids the chewiness of bad calamari, and delivers just the right balance of salt and spice. The accompanying wasabi-accented sour cream is a subtle and welcome addition.

We round off with a small serving of banoffee pie from the buffet, as sinfully sweet an ending as we’d hoped for.

Behind the bar Beers from £4 a pint; wine from £5.35 a glass; cocktails from £7.50.

Bill please The brunch costs £24.95, which includes a cooked breakfast buffet, pancakes, waffles, cured meats, pastries, desserts, a la carte menu and a bellini.

Verdict If approached tactically, this could prove a cost-effective feed.

The grub isn’t quite worth travelling across town for, however.

Hilton Canary Wharf, South Quay, Marsh Wall, E14 9SH  
Tube | South Quay 
hilton.com