Walking over the threshold into the Les Criques de Porteils grounds, you’ll be forgiven for mistaking it for a five-star hotel. The thick beige stone wall is embellished with five gold stars after all. It may not be a luxury hotel, but this campsite in Argelès-sur-Mer in France has all the hallmarks of an upmarket accommodation. Perched on the rocky coast of Côte Vermeille, the campsite towers over the Mediterranean Sea, in the middle of a nature reserve.  

Tucked away just 20 km from the Spanish border, Argelès-sur-Mer is often referred to as the ‘European Camping Capital’, boasting a variety of campsites with diverse amenities and activities. The current count stands at 48, just behind a seven km beach of fine sand, boasting some 13,500 pitches. It’s no wonder Argelès-sur-Mer is a popular destination for camping holidays with a variety of campsites to suit all budgets. 

Camping for tourists developed from 1950 when locals noticed scores of holidaymakers erecting tents on the beach. But unorthodox ‘camping’ began in late 1938 and early 1939 when French authorities decided to build a concentration camp on the beach to deal with the flow of refugees from Spain following the Civil War. Most of the refugees were Catalans and shared the local Catalan culture.  

Today, camping continues to thrive, and while Argelès-sur-Mer has just 10,000 residents, in the summer, this figure skyrockets to around 180,000. Les Cirques de Porteils owner Laurent Raspaud saw business potential when he set eyes on the site back in 2005 and turned the then-failing, rundown campsite into a luxury campground over the subsequent four years. He wanted to offer campers a top service unparalleled by anything else in the area.  

Laurent tells me as we walk around the campsite with 248 pitches, that the grounds attract visitors who are looking for a quiet, peaceful holiday. They come here because of the top standards offered free of charge as part of the pitch fees, from the yoga and guided hiking to extra staff to help make their holiday smooth. I’m impressed with the facilities, especially the showers and changing rooms. The place is immaculate and is picture-perfect. Visitors can bring their tents, campervans or RVS or book a mobile home. The pitches are well spread out, allowing for much privacy.  

The French government stipulates that the beach is open to everyone regardless of whether any building is situated on the beachfront. Abiding by the law, Laurent created a bridge directly from the campsite onto the beach so visitors have easy access to it.  

Argelès has numerous beaches and coves to discover, and just minutes after arriving at The Grand Hotel du Golfe, I take a stroll to Le Racou. The name means ‘corner’ or ‘hidden spot’, and it’s perfect if you’re looking for a relaxing day with sand between your toes and a swim in the turquoise waters. Don’t miss the opportunity to take a walk around the charming hamlet with its white houses. It’s every inch as idyllic as I had seen in the images ahead of my visit. 

For more strenuous walks, Argelès provides a diverse landscape. For a heart-thumping walk, give le sentier littoral a shot. The uninterrupted coastal path of 41 km that runs from Mas Larrieu nature park in Argelès to the Col des Balistres bordering Spain.  

I can’t resist a forest walk, so I grab my hiking boots for a walk in Valmy Park. The 13 km circular walk to the Tour de la Massane is a popular one, but being time-poor, I take the shorter Chapelle St Laurent trail starting and ending at Valmy Castle. The views from the Albères mountain range are magnificent, and on a clear day, you can see Perpignan. 

There’s plenty of good food to be had in Argelès-sur-Mer, and you can expect to eat well. For a slap-up meal, head to Le Relais de la Massane – it’s a beautiful spot offering fine dining. If you like wine, be sure to book the table above the glass ceiling to the cellar. But if you suffer from acrophobia, it’s not for you.

With wine and olive oil production in the area as well as organic products including jams, preserves and limoncello from the La Mer Blanche estate, an open-air garden, you can take a slice of Argelès-sur-Mer home. And of course, you’ll have plenty of memories to keep with you long after the food and drink are devoured.