Snapshot from Santiago
Jay Houhlias
From out the bus windows there was a gradual build-up of civilisation.
“We are coming into the city of Santiago de Compostela,” the announcement over the microphone came.
Our guide’s name was Hector and he was from Madrid. Throughout the trip, our group had gotten to know how he operated. He had a huge database of facts and history but did not talk like a guide. He talked like a proud Spaniard who happened to know most everything about his country. He was passionate, opinionated, and very Spaniard.
“Santiago is of course famous for the Camino de Santiago which began around 830 when the tomb of St James, apostle of the Iberian Peninsula, was found.”
The foot traffic on route to the Galicia region arising from this encouraged a great buildup of business and industry, just like the buildup of civilisation we were seeing toward the city now.
“Here you will see many of those finishing their pilgrimage here, at the cathedral, many people with their backpacks, all wanting to become pilgrims. You will meet them, and you can speak to them.”
The main sites of Santiago, the old town with its cathedral and churches, is full of hikers with walking sticks, heavy boots and fluorescent rain proof jackets. Some sit by themselves resting and others sit in groups on benches and steps and at cafes and restaurants.
The feeling of a relieved sigh after finally switching off for the day was in the air.
I found a man sitting by himself. He was marking on a piece of paper all the stamps he had collected on his journey and he looked quite at ease with everything. Far be it from me to encroach on his zen, I encroached on his zen.
“Excuse me,” I said, “you speak English?”
While it’s always my first line in a non-English speaking country, I always feel bad asking it. I can’t imagine how annoying it is to be in your own country with your native lounge, then being asked to speak English all the time.
Then again, I am also full of it because I know I probably won’t take the time to learn another language, so forget I said anything.
“English, so so,” he said, titling his hand.
“You did the Camino trail?”
“Yes,” he said.
“Could you tell me about it?”
“I try,” he said, “but I don’t speak a lot of English, so some things may not be correct.”
“I am Italian, I am Alessandro, and I am 23 years old.”
His brilliant and brawny beard, not doubt grown on his travels, gave him a look many years ahead of 23.
Here I was reminded of something Hector told us about how shops and hostels on the trail have historically used incense to mask the smell emanating from the weary pilgrims – not that Alessandro had a smell of course.
“I started the Camino one month and three weeks ago from Italy. I started in Irun and did the Camino del Norte.”
There are multiple routes one can trek the Camino. The most common is the Camino Francés, 500 miles from the start point at St. Jean-Pied-du-Port.
“I arrived there by hitchhiking – from Italy to Irun in Spain – then hiking for twenty days. I decided to do the Camino because, well, I am not Catholic, but I am a spiritual person, I don’t know. So for me, the motivation is spiritual, and also because I love to walk.”
“I arrived here yesterday and was very excited because I have been sleeping in tents. If you do it in a tent, it’s more difficult, but it’s more,” he searched for words here and spoke some Italian…
“Authentic?” I tried helping, “more real?”
“Yes, yes,” he said, “more, emotional. I loved the adventure, and today or tomorrow, I’ll try and return to Italy also by hitch hiking. With a car, and with my…” he held out his thumb.
None of the other people I spoke to were religious, but they all felt an urge to accomplish something difficult, worthwhile, and as Alessandro put it, emotional.
At the end of the trail, you can attend the Pilgrim’s Mass where your name, nationality and starting point are read out at a ceremony.
I also got the chance to go further to Finisterre, where, as Hector our guide put it, the end of the world was, and the real finish of the Camino was. On route from the town into the headland, we passed many more walkers. At the headland, there was a man playing the bagpipes and Ly from Taiwan, bouncing around excitedly.
Bagpipe playing at Cape Finisterre
“I did it in 19 days from France and I took another 3 days to finish here in Finisterre,” Ly said. “It’s a beautiful memory. There were beautiful views but also interesting people from different cultures, and we talked a lot about our futures, our lives, and our stories. I am really happy right now.”
Ly was very happy, so happy he started running back down the headland after a few photos. His huge calf muscles clearly had more to give even after finishing 22 days of hiking.
The pilgrimage has recently had a resurgence. After being forgotten during 14th century wars and famines, its gradual rise in popularity has extended to travelers from everywhere.
Now the city is full of people, a huge broiling pot of culture and experience, of exhausted legs and sore shoulders and people all wanting communion. They are connected by many things, but all of them are pilgrims, now.
This trip was part of Rabbie’s Six-day Charms of Portugal and North West Spain tour. For more information and the book a tour, visit www.rabbies.com. You can find out more about the Camino at https://santiago-compostela.net/.
