The presentation is slightly disorganised and it’s set up like a nightclub rather than a restaurant – upon entry, customers are confronted with a spacious bar rather than seats and the dinky tables are designed for drinks more than meals.
THE GRUB: Kumo is elevated by its excellent food. The seafood dishes are cracking – the fried squid with chilli and ponzu sauce is a winner, as are the assorted makis, particularly the one with soft-shell crab. The monkfish skewers, served with garlic and ginger are also delicious, while the yakitori chicken and warm beef salad are more straightforward but still rewarding.
BEHIND THE BAR: The cocktails are well-made, although the selection seems to suggest only women will be ordering them. They’re mostly girly, fruity concoctions, without much for the male connoisseur. Also, drinks with names such as New Orgasm don’t scream sophistication or discernment.
BILL PLEASE: Makis from £6; mains from £5; dessert £5; cocktails from £10.
VERDICT: The combination of restaurant and nightclub doesn’t entirely click but the superior food and friendly staff make it worth a visit.
11 Beauchamp Place, SW3 1NQ
Tube: South Kensington
– Tom sturrock