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An unlikely location in the midst of a Fulham housing estate only serves to make this food-focused pub more cosy and inviting. TNT settled in for three courses.

THE SCENE: On a dark and stormy May evening the Chelsea Ram makes a perfect refuge. Its roaring fire, selection of board games and friendly staff implies they expect you to stay for the long haul. And there's no reason that you shouldn't. It's a long way from the tube, and its country-pub feel makes it so welcoming that you never want to leave. It was pub giant Geronimo's first pub, and they have just about managed to keep that sense of uniqueness.

THE GRUB: The food is as classic as pub food gets. The menu is packed with pies, battered fish, soups of the day, big steaks and burgers, but all with a little twist that makes you double take. The rib-eye comes with roasted bone marrow, which is rich and packed with flavour; my wild mushroom and toast starter was drizzled with pesto; and my crispy skinned chicken hotpot came with fresh cherry tomatoes. If the dishes all look a little wintery and heavy for you, you can round it off with a wonderful Eton mess. The menu supposedly changes daily, so don't be put off by the lack of vegetarian options listed on the website – they will find something tasty in the specials. And if they can't, they stock Pickled Onion Monster Munch behind the bar, which made me very happy indeed.

BEHIND THE BAR: There are some real ales on tap and the standard set of lagers, but being food-focused the wine seems the focus. The list is quite French-dominated, but varied enough for a menu of it's small size, and the staff know it well enough to make recommendations. They also know enough not recommend anything without asking what you might have as your main course.

BILL PLEASE: Starters from £4.95; mains from £9.50; desserts from £5.50; glass of wine from £3.90.

VERDICT: It's a little out of the way but, if you find yourself in Fulham and really fancy some excellent pub grub, you'll be delighted with the Chelsea Ram – good food, good wine, good prices, friendly staff and, if it starts raining, Scrabble to pass the time.

32 Burnaby Street, SW10 0PL
Tube: Fulham Broadway/ Rail: Imperial Wharf
geronimo-inns.co.uk/thechelsearam


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Review: The Chelsea Ram
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