9th Feb 2013 3:06pm | By Alasdair Morton
This smart-looking gastro pub, a newly renovated former coaching inn, sits on the cusp of Richmond Park in west London and is a stone’s throw from Putney High Street.
The scene In such a semi-secluded location, with its suburban charm and green spaces all around, it’s easy to forget you’re actually a 10-minute walk from a Tube station.
Grand from the outside, it’s split into bar and dining areas within, with a wood-warm decor that is hearty but never imposing or overly fussy.
The grub Gastro fare usually means pub grub with inflated prices, but The King’s Head manages to combine an element of flair in its menu while still being affordable.
So no prawn cocktail to start here, but there is a Hampshire venison carpaccio with horseradish and chicken, and a ham hock and pistachio terrine.
We opt for the scallops and black pudding fritter, which is a tad underwhelming – it’s beautifully presented but lacking that knockout flavour combination.
The accompanying haddock smokey with poached hen’s egg and toasted soldiers (that’s toast to you and I) makes up for this – it’s a gluttonous, creamy treat my date and I end up going halves on so we can both enjoy it (a choice made by her rather than me).
For mains we opt for the tried and tested fish and chips (or beer battered haddock and triple cooked chips, we’re told) and bangers and mash.
Again, half of our choice is spot on: the fish is generous and flavourful and the chips are crispy and fluffy, but the simplicity of the ‘London bangers’ component of the other dish leaves us longing for a little bit more spark.
The satisfying cheese board and chocolate truffle dessert sends us home on a belly-filled high, though.
Behind the bar We have a bottle of the Domaine Condamine l`Eveque cabernet merlot from the varied wine list, with spirits, beers and Young’s ales on offer, too.
Bill please Starters from £4.50; mains from £9; desserts from £4. Wine from £4.30 (by the glass) and beers from £3.80 a pint.
Verdict An easygoing and unassuming night out that doesn’t break the bank.
1 Roehampton High Street, SW15 4HL
Tube | East Putney