The scene: From Thomasina Miers’ Wahaca chain to Victoria’s

Picante, Mexican restaurants have been popping up like mushrooms all

over London in recent years. This Chancery Lane foodhouse is the latest

addition to Chilango’s band of Mexican eateries, which promises good

quality burritos and tacos with a quick turnaround. Despite nods to

Mexican culture, including the garish paintwork and the obligatory

Virgin Mary shrine, the decor is somewhat industrial with drab formica

tables and stools. Even with piped world music, the place lacks

atmosphere, but then Chilango resides at the fast-food end of the

spectrum, and we are here for the food after all.

The grub: We start with tortilla chips and salsa/guacamole.

The salsa asada is adequately smoky but the guacamole isn’t tangy

enough. For the main I plump for the beef burrito with freshly grilled

steak and all the trimmings (beans, coriander, lime rice, guacamole,

cheese, lettuce). The meat is tender but given it has been grilled with

Chilango’s “secret chilli blend” could have been spicier. There is no

choice other than to have it cooked “medium”, which is disappointing.

My friend chooses the vegetarian burrito with grilled peppers, pinto

beans, caramelised onion, along with the usual fillings, and reports

that it is delicious. Sadly there is no dessert – surely some churros

isn’t too much to expect, even in a no-frills place like this?

Behind the bar: The choice of alcohol is restricted to Corona

and Negra Modelo. There’s also Agua Fresca, a traditional Mexican fruit

cooler and fresh juices.

Bill please: Tortilla chips and salsa/guacamole from £2.80;

burritos from £4.90 (without guacamole). Corona £3.40; Negra Modelo

£3.80. Juices from £2.50.

Verdict: I wouldn’t cross town to eat here, and I’ve had

better Mexican elsewhere, but I if I worked locally I would surely drop

in for a cheeky burrito.


76 Chancery Lane, WC2A 1AA
Tube: Chancery Lane

Alison Grinter