The scene: From Thomasina Miers’ Wahaca chain to Victoria’s
Picante, Mexican restaurants have been popping up like mushrooms all
over London in recent years. This Chancery Lane foodhouse is the latest
addition to Chilango’s band of Mexican eateries, which promises good
quality burritos and tacos with a quick turnaround. Despite nods to
Mexican culture, including the garish paintwork and the obligatory
Virgin Mary shrine, the decor is somewhat industrial with drab formica
tables and stools. Even with piped world music, the place lacks
atmosphere, but then Chilango resides at the fast-food end of the
spectrum, and we are here for the food after all.
The grub: We start with tortilla chips and salsa/guacamole.
The salsa asada is adequately smoky but the guacamole isn’t tangy
enough. For the main I plump for the beef burrito with freshly grilled
steak and all the trimmings (beans, coriander, lime rice, guacamole,
cheese, lettuce). The meat is tender but given it has been grilled with
Chilango’s “secret chilli blend” could have been spicier. There is no
choice other than to have it cooked “medium”, which is disappointing.
My friend chooses the vegetarian burrito with grilled peppers, pinto
beans, caramelised onion, along with the usual fillings, and reports
that it is delicious. Sadly there is no dessert – surely some churros
isn’t too much to expect, even in a no-frills place like this?
Behind the bar: The choice of alcohol is restricted to Corona
and Negra Modelo. There’s also Agua Fresca, a traditional Mexican fruit
cooler and fresh juices.
Bill please: Tortilla chips and salsa/guacamole from £2.80;
burritos from £4.90 (without guacamole). Corona £3.40; Negra Modelo
£3.80. Juices from £2.50.
Verdict: I wouldn’t cross town to eat here, and I’ve had
better Mexican elsewhere, but I if I worked locally I would surely drop
in for a cheeky burrito.
3/5
76 Chancery Lane, WC2A 1AA
chilango.co.uk
Tube: Chancery Lane
Alison Grinter
