The grub: There are an array of appetisers to accompany your tipple of choice. We sample the Pkhali platter (aubergine slices with walnut, leek and Georgian spices), which is a delight.

The Ajapsandali (an aubergine ragout) is surprisingly spicy, and a welcome accompaniment to the Khachapuri (cheese bread). The Khinkali (Georgian dumplings) are a superb and succulent highlight.

With a separate restaurant at the back serving Georgian dishes such as Chanakhi (lamb stew) and Mtsvadi (shashlyk with red onions, potatoes and dipping sauces), there is provision for those seeking further culinary sating, too.
Behind the bar: An extensive selection of wines, New World and Old, as well as some choice Georgian tipples, too – some available by the glass or carafe, but most by the bottle. We opt for the Orovela Red Cuvee Chadrebi cab sav, which is warm, rich and full-bodied. A suitably resplendent selection of beers and spirits is also on call, as is a range of cocktails.

Bill please: Appetisers from £7.50. Wine – glass from £6; bottle from £23.

Verdict: With an inviting atmosphere, fine food and a stunning selection of drink, Colchis comes highly recommended. Alasdair morton

Address: 39 Chepstow Place, W2 4TS  Tube: Notting Hill Gate