115 Dalling Road, Hammersmith, W6 OET
020 8748 6174
Tube: Ravenscourt Park
The scene: A truly cosy corner pub that bears the hallmarks of a refined countryside boozer. Situated in Brackenbury Village, a small precinct bookended by Hammersmith and Shepherd’s Bush, Youngs has revamped this venue to a homely kind of splendour. A log fire, mismatched rustic furniture, deep sofas and candlelight prove tranquilising.
The grub: It’s a British and unashamedly meat-biased menu. A tidy mound of oyster and portobello mushrooms, pancetta and poached egg perched upon a rocket salad is lush, even if the ingredients more befit a breakfast. A second starter of venison carpaccio is delicate in texture but delightfully flavoursome and offset to perfection with a beetroot and parsley salad.
A duck confit main with garlic mash and pickled red cabbage comes in an overwhelming portion, and its hearty, heavy seasonal flavours are the perfect antidote to the chill outside. In contrast, a sweet potato and green bean curry with lemon and coriander rice, although wonderfully fragrant, lacks bite.
Finally, an apple and rum-soaked raisin crumble is a letdown at the end with a crumble that is powdery.
Bill please: Starters between £4.50 and £6.50, mains from £7.50 to £12.50, and puddings are £5. A huge selection of wines range from £15 to £39 per bottle.
Verdict: You don’t happen upon this pub, you’ve got to find it, but with its warm atmosphere it’ll be well worth your while.
– Rebecca Kent