“Ok,” I said, “can I get a double espresso but with some hot water so it’s longer, but not quite an Americano?”

She nodded and in two minutes brought out a double espresso but with some hot water so it was longer, but not quite an Americano. Not even native English speakers get that order right, and I made a note to not insult Copenhageners further by asking if they speak English.

This however, was not my first introduction to the city. It began with a bike. If you’re new to the city, it’s a good idea not to jump straight on a bike. You need to walk around first to get your bearings, and riding in Copenhagen is slightly crazy.

It operates exactly like car traffic except it’s more intimate because you can hear people breathe as they ride past you. At first it’s all very intimidating. But then you realise the best thing to do is just back yourself.

“Hey”, you say, “I love you”, you say, but it’s too late, they are already gone, they never heard you, they have ridden past in the mass of other riders, they won’t be seen by your eyes no more, and then all you can do is ride on haunted by what could have been, and then you are alone, again.

I jumped on Classic Canal Tour from Ved Stranden around Copenhagen’s main sites. It really is a delightful city, not just because its buildings are based around the water, but because this water is clean and swimmable. It adds a whole new layer of functionality and appeal than just being a tease. It’s an environment you can interact with rather than just look at.

I have traveled Scandinavia in winter and my perspective wasn’t that people were less friendly or lively, it’s just they took their friendliness and liveliness indoors, into their own homes. People can do this because generally, Danish homes are large and comfortable (compared to say, a London flat), and so pleasant times continue even though, as a traveler, you might not see people out and about.

Steel House is where I also rented my bike, made my friends and got all my tips and tricks. It’s a luxury hostel and has pretty much everything – gym, swimming pool, working spaces, cafes, activities and sports, other cool people, solo travelers (and solo traveler events) and large group travelers.

The hostel scene in Copenhagen operates like a family. Most of the hostels know each other and work together to create experiences for travelers and raise the bar of travel in Copenhagen.

Jep, the manager of Steel House, is the man around town.
“Copenhagen has become a hostel destination in itself. A hostel destination of Scandinavia you can say. Especially the addition of Steel House Copenhagen and Next House Copenhagen has made this a reality.”

“With the new wave of larger hostels comes the possibility of large social areas for activities, socialising and creating the hostel moments. Within the hostel. Your hostel becomes your point of reference for your adventure in the city.”

We all went out for traditional Danish lunch. Danish food can be characterised quite simply as food mixed with pork, and some kind of rye. There is also fish, but mostly it’s pork, and pork adjacent things, or pork mixtures.

As a city, Copenhagen is my favourite in Europe. It’s an encouraging place. People are excited about new ideas and negativity is hard to find.
But that’s enough from me. I am making far too many assertions for someone only there five days. You will have to read on for next time when I give the low down on my time living there, perhaps through the winter too.