8th Jul 2012 3:21pm | By Jahn Vannisselroy
The Gaslight Grill, part of the stable responsible for Clapham’s excellent Blind Tiger and Powder Keg Diplomacy, indulges in the same esoteric decor of its siblings.
The scene: More than 200 chains hang from a skylight in the centre of the ceiling, caged lightbulbs provide artful illumination, trombone parts protrude from the walls, and the room’s focal point is an attention-grabbing piece of steampunk-inspired art (above) by London graphic designer James Piper.
If you’re looking for a spot to impress someone, this warm, sophisticated restaurant is your place.
The grub: Gaslight’s aim is ‘to redefine the modern steakhouse by pushing the boundaries of creativity’ and chefs Marek Novak and Jindra Vbrka certainly succeed.
My partner’s starter of slow-roasted pork belly, scallops and roast balsamic onion puree with pork crackling is an outstanding combination of tastes, while my Loch Fyne smoked salmon with pea and mint sorbet tempts me to order a repeat.
However, I want to leave room for the main, a 200g slab of fillet steak, complemented spectacularly by my choice of sauces – smoky Bowmore whisky, Hoxton stout sauce (with honey undertones) and the Beefeater gin with juniper berry.
There’s 18 to choose from, each adding another element to the rich meat and well worth experimenting with. It’s all washed down with a bottle of Cantina Tramin Pinot Noir.
My date’s smoked duck breast, marinated in chilli and orange, with roasted sweet potatoes more than satisfies her yearning for a hotter dish, providing such a filling meal that she doesn’t want dessert.
However, I twist her arm and we share a rhubarb and crumble tart tatin with rum and raisin ice cream, finished off with an espresso martini. Our French waiter’s service is spot on all evening.
Behind the bar: As the Gaslight Grill joins on to the equally outstanding Lost Angel Bar, there’s plenty of options for superior cocktails, both before and after your meal.
Bill please: Starters from £6.50; mains from £15.25; desserts from £6; wine from £19; beer from £3.90; cocktails from £7.95.
verdict The Gaslight will illuminate your evening – and your life.
339 Battersea Park Rd, SW11 4LS
Tube | Clapham Junction