The scene Once the very model of an ‘old man pub’, the White Horse has undergone a makeover in what seems very much like an attempt to compete with its hipper Hampstead counterparts.

Now bang on trend, the interior is all mismatched shabby chic (chintzy wallpaper, knackered fireplace, dripping chandeliers), and there’s a free jukebox bearing the hand-written plea ‘not too much Jimi’.

As a result, the clientele now comes off a little confused, with lairy older women excitedly accosting trendy youngsters when we visited.

The grub Standard, but satisfying, pan-European pub grub. We enjoyed the antipasti selection, salmon with braised fennel and corn-fed chicken served on moreishly buttery bay lentils. The pulled pork looked tempting, too.
 
Behind the bar The signature White Horse ale is brewed exclusively for the pub at Caledonian Brewery and is a refreshing, lightly floral affair, perfect for summer drinking.

If you’re not a craft beer fan, try it in the Gold Medallist cocktail, which blends the brew with spiced rum and fresh peaches. You won’t be sorry.

Bill please Cocktails from £6; wine from £4.10/ £16; pints from £4.10. Starters from £4.50; mains from £9.50; desserts from £5.50.

Verdict Swing by for the flagship drinks, but this pub, early on in its reinvention, lacks the personality to keep bums on seats. Still, there’s time yet to find its feet.

154 Fleet Road, NW3 2QX   
Tube | Hampstead Heath
whitehorsehampstead.co.uk