15th Apr 2012 7:00pm | By Oli Jones
Oli Jones reviews the Newington Green pub
It’s easy to think of Newington Green as a middle-class gateway hummus: a non-too-offensive pot of supermarket own-brand gentrification en-route to the overwhelmingly organic, ground-by-10th-generation-Lebanese-hummus-artisans, bourgeois chickpea mush of Stoke Newington. But “Newie G” has plenty to offer, including the charming Edinburgh Cellars. The decor, solid oak tables and button-back leather armchairs, perfectly suit the pub’s high ceilings, and grand fireplaces. The aquamarine walls allow it to be cosy in the winter and bright in the summer. Like most pleasant North London pubs in the quinoa triangle (Crouch End, Highbury, Stoke Newington) things can get distinctly ‘prammy’ of a weekend.
The changing, and happily spare menu, is split between solid pub favourites (cheese burger, sausage and mash) and more refined options. The starters are inventive, if not immodestly cheap, while the desserts thankfully aren’t your typical, ‘pierce the film lid and blast in a microwave for 30 seconds’ fare.
Behind the bar
There are ales-a-plenty, which rotate regularly. The Cellar’s Kozel Czech lager serves as its bargain beer, and it’s quite excellent. The draught drinks are obviously well-kept – and it’s nice to see some people still care.
Wine and beer from £3.80, shots from £3, food from £1.25.
Great for Sunday slumping or a schoolnight swig.
125 Newington Green Road, NI 4RA Canonbury
Image by Ewan Munro