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Getting there

easyJet flies to Aberdeen from Luton and Gatwick. Prices one-way start from £22.99 ( LoganAir flies to Kirkwall from Aberdeen and North Ronaldsay from Kirkwall. Fares start at £54.99 one-way and £21 return respectively (

Where to eat

Kirkwall locals hit up The Ayre Hotel for large portions of well-priced pub grub. Crab’s always a specialty, though lasagne and chips helps ward off the winter chill. (

Regulars at Wylie’s Tearoom in Kirkwall complain about the ‘Wylie Waddle’, a byproduct of the generous portions. (Harray’s Store, Harray)

Where to drink

Though the décor at The Albert Hotel’s Bothy Bar is somewhat rustic (vintage photos of Orkadian farmers line the walls), the crowd is young and the soundtrack all modern pop. (

Orkney’s main nightclub, Fusion, is a great spot to listen to local rock bands, as well as a few major headliners, such as Edith Bowman. (10-12 Ayre Road)

Where to sleep

The polite staff, central location and comfy rooms make The Albert Hotel in Kirkwall a winner. The full breakfast comes with an exceptionally tasty slab of black pudding. (

The North Ronaldsay Bird Observatory’s super-homey digs make everyone feel at home. Fleur, who manages the place, cooks up a fantastic roast and some mean puddings. Cooked breakfasts and lunches are just as sublime. (


Spotting the Northern Lights in Orkney
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