1 Somehow, amid the mass cathartic revelry of post-war Belgrade, the city has found an artistic and neo-bohemian buzz that reminds you why Europe was all the rage in the ’70s. The hotspot for Belgrade’s future-retro party vibe is centred on Skadarlija Street, the bohemian area of old Belgrade, located between what are now Cetinjska, Makedonska and Skadarska streets. The place is now chockers with charm, boasting the city’s best watering holes.
2 Sitting atop the heart of the old city is an ancient fortress that overlooks the rivers Sava and Danube. Here you’ll find guides who will tell you the detailed history of Belgrade and Kalemegdan fortress, and there are well-preserved remains (even grafitti made by bored medieval guardsmen) to see as well as heaps of museums and galleries. Kalemegdan hosts concerts and club nights, but it’s the view over the city that’s the money shot.
3 One of the most crowded city beaches in Europe sits on the shores of the Sava river. During the long, hot summer days, over 300,000 people try to find relaxation and a cool patch on Ada Ciganlija, for good reason – the spot is stunning, clean and rightfully called Belgrade Hawaii”. Decent nightlife, too.
4 In the beginning, there was just one or two coffee bars, then wham! Strahinjica Bana Street turned into the night time tit capital of Eastern Europe. Sleazy blokes and amazing women roam after dark in this street the locals call Silicon Valley. Ace.
5 Of course, there’s the food. You can bet your cotton socks some of the best seafood grub (and steaks) on offer in Belgrade can be found on one of the dazzlingly hip, but ultra comfy floating restaurants docked along the banks of the Sava at the foot of the Kalemegdan. Pure charm.
The essentials
Time from London About a three-hour flight from Heathrow.
Getting there JAT Yugoslav Airlines and BA run flights to Belgrade daily.
What to say Easy one: “alkohol josvise dopasti se!” is “more hard liquor please!”
Price of a beer: About £1.40″