THE SCENE: Not your usual post-work City escape. Yes, The Oyster Shed has huge glass walls, but they’re for showing off the fact it’s right on the Thames. When we turn up at the newly opened pub, it’s heaving, but still waiting for final touches, and instead of a mirror in the ladies’ loos, there’s a sign saying, “You look great! (Sorry, mirror coming next week)”. It is mostly intact, however, in full nautical-themed, round-windowed glory.
THE GRUB: Served on a mezzanine ‘observation deck’, the pork shoulder with apple sauce tastes more burnt than ‘spiced’ as the menu promises, and the fish cake with spinach and poached egg comes with a surprise slathering of hollandaise sauce, (not on the menu). Luckily, it matches the fish, and the egg is at perfect three-minute runniness. Treacle tart and clotted cream is a sticky, homely end.
BEHIND THE BAR: There’s a good range of well-priced wines and fizz, with a southern hemisphere section on the menu. The cocktails are the best, with a particularly sweet Apple and Elderflower Martini that’s a perfect summer, riverside drink.
BILL PLEASE: Wine from £3.80 a glass; beer and ale from £3.55; cocktails from £5; small plates from £4.50; bigger plates from £9.50; desserts from £1.50.
THE VERDICT: The food is average, but it’s great as a bar. And with its location and decent drinks menu, it’s probably going to be even busier come summer.
1 Angel Lane, EC4R 3AB
Tube | Monument | geronimo-inns.co.uk/theoystershed
