It’s buzzing on a bitterly cold Wednesday night, but that’s not too unusual.

The other diners look pretty normal as well.

But something’s not quite … ah, right, that’s what’s different – The Gate is a meat-free zone.

It thrives on serving a vegetarian and vegan menu, and is London’s most successful veggie restaurant having opened its first branch in Hammersmith in 1989. And there’s not a vegetarian lasagne in sight …

The grub I opt for the tasty Indo-Iraqi potato cake, filled with Indian-spiced baby corn, courgettes, carrots and served with a tamarind sauce and chutney.

Across the table, my friend’s carciofini – baby artichoke filled with wild mushroom with puy lentil salsa – arrives also looking like a colourful work of art.

Both get the thumbs up.

Next are crispy aubergine schnitzels, layered with tangy apple wood-smoked cheddar, drizzled with fresh basil pesto and served with soft potato dauphinoise, salty pan-fried kale and finished with creamy horseradish sauce.

My friend orders the beetroot ravioli, filled with artichoke, dolcelatte, basil and pine nuts and pan-fried with kale and served with puy lentil salsa.

The only criticism is the pasta’s a little too al dente.

On to dessert, which we’re far too full for but opt for the mezze anyway, which is a selection including sticky toffee and date pudding, black cherry and chocolate cheesecake, and apple, cinnamon and blackberry crumble. All divine.

Behind the bar Try the Orange Cheesecake – juice, cinnamon, gin, mascarpone and Campari – cocktail. Amazing. Also a great selection of wines and beers.

Bill please Starters from £5.75; mains from £12.50; desserts from £3; fresh juices from £3.30; cocktails from £7.50; champagne from £6; wine £4.50/ £16.75 a glass/ bottle.

Verdict A judge at the London Restaurant Festival Awards summed it up nicely: “The Gate isn’t a good vegetarian restaurant; it’s simply a good restaurant.” 

%TNT Magazine% stars 4

370 St John Street, EC1V 4NN  
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