THE GRUB: There will be some pizza fans who stick to the ‘if it isn’t broke don’t fix it’ mantra. I’m no fan of needless change yet I couldn’t help but be intrigued by the range of bases on offer. Wholemeal, gluten-free and traditional were joined by the curve ball vegetable charcoal, with ‘evocative flavour, dramatic look…. digestive gas absorbing capacities.’ Naturally I went for the last option for my Arianna; mozzarella, sausage, two kinds of cheese and truffle honey. The black base was certainly a statement and although it got a bit soggy, it was a novelty I’m willing to repeat.

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We also tried a wholemeal base which was a surprise success, slightly drier than I’m used to but that was an asset when teamed with the ooze of mozzarella, gorgonzola and speck. There’s also a good range of salads and ours with butternut squash, artichoke, sundried tomatoes and capers was fresh and well-dressed. We couldn’t fit in a pudding but alongside the tiramisu and ricotta cheesecake, the dessert pizza with Nutella, custard and fruit is gaining something of a following on the interweb.

BEHIND THE BAR: There’s a reasonable selection of soft drinks, including San Pellegrino’s Chinotto flavour – a very bitter citrus fruit reminiscent of Campari. If you’re looking for something a bit stronger there are five red wines and three whites available by the bottle or glass, Prosecco, bottled beers and the ever so trendy Aperol Spritz and Negroni.

BILL PLEASE: Pizzas are reasonably priced, starting at £6.90 and finishing at £10.80 but add £1.50 for a fancy base. Big salads are around £5-£7 which is decent value for money for generous portions. Bottles of wine range from £18-£24 and cocktails are around £6.

VERDICT: Authentic vibe with some idiosyncratic touches, definitely worth trying if you’re in the area.

ADDRESS:

157 Holloway Rd, London N7

TUBE: Holloway Road

OVERALL STAR RATING 4 out of 5