Mention Cambodia and most people think of those fabulous Angkor ruins, but when you spend more time in The Kingdom, you’ll discover that there’s a lot more to see and do. Still well off Asia’s more mainstream tourist trails – and still recovering from wounds inflicted by the brutal Khmer Rouge regime – this is one of the world’s poorest countries, which can be heartbreaking, but at the same time seems to have given Khmers a resilient nature and natural curiosity that makes them eager to meet and help travellers. With a fleet of buses in fairly good condition, it’s easy – and cheap – to travel around this bite-sized country, but apart from a sprinkling of popular coastal resorts and the country’s main towns, don’t expect to see much ‘civilisation’.
Tip: You’ll see hordes of grubby, barefooted kids rag picking and roaming the streets – especially in Phnom Penh. Don’t give them money, which is usually taken by a ringleader higher up in the chain. Instead, head for the nearest food stand and buy them something nourishing to eat – your gift will be really appreciated.
Places to visit
Phnom Penh
Known as PP by the handful of expats who live here, Cambodia’s capital lying at the meeting point of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers is a bewilderingly authentic blend of tatty colonial architecture, kamikaze tuk-tuks, chaotic street markets and great nightlife.
Things to do
Head for Olympic stadium (Sihanouk and Monireth boulevards) at sunrise and join thousands of bendy locals doing aerobics, then pop next door to The Olympic market to buy Cambodian silks and silver betel nut containers. Next flag down a tuk-tuk and tootle over to The Royal Palace (phnompenh.gov.kh), where costly exhibits include an emerald buddha hewn out of Baccarat crystal. Let your lunch settle then head for Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (tuolsleng.com), the former high school that became S-21, Pol Pot’s most terrifying prison.
Where to stay
When you’re tired of heat and dust The Plantation (theplantation.asia) in a converted Khmer building is a fabulously swish place to kick back. For a budget alternative try Number 9 (number9hotel.com) an Aussie-owned hotel with clean rooms, free wifi and breakfast included.
Going out
Order a sunset cocktail in the colonial-era-style Foreign Correspondents Club (fcccambodia.com/phnom_penh/boutique-hotel.php), where war correspondents holed up before they were forced to flee the Pol Pot regime, and you’ll be living the iconic PP experience. Next, feed at PP’s night market (Psar Reatrey) on the riverfront where vendors sell Khmer snacks for a song. Once you’ve eaten your fill, grab a tuk and make your way over to Equinox (equinox-cambodia.com), the best place in PP for live music and cheap cocktails.
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Kampot
An hour’s bus ride from the more popular, but also pretty tacky. Sihanoukville, chilled Kampot has spectacular views over the river and to the Elephant mountains.
Things to do
Head out with Anne Pizey on a paddleboard (supasia.org) to discover floating villages and critically endangered Irrawaddy dolphins, make the day trip to Bokor national park (phnombokor.com) to visit the bullet-peppered carcass of The Bokor Palace hotel, or stay a bit longer and volunteer with Cambobabs (cambobabs.skynetblogs.be) to teach the basics of English to children.
Where to stay
There’s a great-value guesthouse with a pool just down the road in Kampong Kreng; Villa Vedici’s (villavedici.com) kiteboarding owner, Frank, makes killer cocktails, too.
Going out
Built on stilts over the river and serving a scrumptious green crab curry, it’s not surprising that Ta Ouv (+855 33 932422) is so popular. Another spot where expats and NGO’s congregate in the evening to play pool and eat massive portions of barbecued rib, is The Rusty Keyhole (kampot-cambodia.com) Kampot’s liveliest bar.
Siem Reap
Home of those amazing Angkor ruins, even if you’re not big on architecture there’s plenty to do in Siem Reap.
What to do
Join a tour with ProAngkor travel (proangkortravel.com) to visit the Angkor Archeological park or, for a more eco-friendly way to discover the site where Angelina Jolie filmed Tomb Raider – hire a bike (thewhitebicycles.org) and explore. Buy silks, Kampot pepper and sculptures from the endless array of stands in Siem Reap’s labyrinth-like night market.
Where to stay
For top-of-the-range pampering after an exhausting day ruin-hopping, try the newly refurbished art deco Park Hyatt Siem Reap (siemreap.park.hyatt.com), but if you’re seeking a budget option, The Ivy Guesthouse and Bar (ivy-guesthouse.com/) has huge rooms, a pool table, hammocks and a restaurant serving cheap beers and veggie food.
Going out
Feed hunger pangs for a song at one of the stands around the night market, then jive the night away at Red Piano (redpianocambodia.com), a backpacker’s favourite near lively Pub street where Angelina Jolie came to order her favourite tipple, Cointreau, lime and tonic, while filming Tomb Raider.
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Kratie
This laidback Mekong riverside town makes a good base for discovering the lesser-known delights of eastern Cambodia.
What to do
Take a tuk to Sambor, a colourfully exotic collection of pre-Angkorian temples buried in monkey-filled jungle, then hire a bike from your guesthouse (about $2 a day), cross the river to Koh Trong on a ferry and follow the nine-kilometre trail around this small lush island to discover ornate stupas and floating villages.
Where to stay
Packed with antiques dating from Cambodia’s colonial period, Le Bungalow (+855 23 215 651) is an upmarket bolthole with big private lounge and restaurant serving pricy French food. A cheaper alternative, The Balcony’s (balconyguesthouse.net) spacious rooms and pretty river views make it popular with backpackers who feed for pennies in the restaurant serving hefty portions of Khmer and western food.
Going out
After strolling with crowds down by the river at sunset, everyone heads for Red Sun Falling (Rue Preah Suramarit), a book-lined bar run by eccentric ex-Chicago bookstore owner, Joe.
Koh Rong
With a few palm-fronded bungalows for hire, no electricity and white sand beaches, Koh Rong is an island paradise for Robinson Crusoes.
What to do
Go diving or snorkelling to see colourful fish and coral-studded reefs with Koh Rong dive centre (kohrong-divecenter.com), circle the island in one of Cambodian Pride Tour’s seakayaks (cambodianpridetours.com), or just laze on the idyllic, powdery white sands of Long Set beach.
Where to stay
Millionaires for whom money is no object will head for the luxurious castaway resort of Song Saa (songsaa.com) in the north of the island, but mere mortals will choose Koh Rong Backpackers (facebook.com/KohRongBackpackers) a palm-leaf bungalow on stilts whose dorms for six include mosquito nets and lockers.
Going out
Koh Touch beach has a lively bar scene, but the best night owl venue on Koh Rong is Monkey Island (monkeyisland-kohrong.com) where they have cheap beers and amazing fire shows on the beach.
