Serbia’s capital, Belgrade, isn’t the most beautiful city in the world thanks to the Milosevic years and heavy bombing in 1999, but, according to one local tour guide: “It has the soul of survival.”
Head to one of the city’s many bars or clubs and you’ll see this in evidence. After experiencing Belgrade’s legendary nightlife you’ll be relieved that, for now at least, while much of it is under construction, sightseeing duties are minimal.
Belgrade’s bars and clubs
During the oppressive regime of Slobodan Milosevic in the ‘90s, Belgrade’s young people set up ‘secret’ bars in their own houses where they could speak freely. One of the best is the Federal Association of World Travellers, which feels more like a lounge room than a vibrant bar.
There are also plenty of fancy cocktail venues, such as Belle Epoque, and dance clubs (including The Tube Club and Club Magacin 3); night owls are spoilt for choice. In winter, one of the most popular clubs is Andergraund, in the catacombs beneath Belgrade Fortress, while in summer, head to the clubs on floating platforms known as splavs.
Best of the rest
Wander the cobbled bohemian quarter of Skadarlija, join the promenade from Republic Square down to shopping street Knez Mihailova, or explore Belgrade Fortress and perch on the ‘lovers’ wall’ to admire the view of the Danube and Sava Rivers. Further afield you will find St Sava’s Temple, the largest Orthodox church in the world, palaces of the Royal compound (you’ll need to book ahead) and Tito’s tomb.
Serbia is for meat lovers!
Apparently Serbia has a law that each main course has to have 250g of meat. That may or may not be true, but it gives you an idea of what to expect from a Serbian dinner. A good place to try the meat is a kafana – an authentic restaurant – called ? (yes, that’s right: question mark). Built in 1823, it opened as a tavern three years later and serves a range of traditional dishes.
Try the local wine
Serbian wine doesn’t have an international reputation for quality, but there are some good locally produced white wines that are worth trying. Beer is cheap and pretty good.
Out of town
Novi Sad, Serbia’s second largest city, merits exploration and there’s far more to it than the famous Exit music festival, which takes place one summer weekend every year. Also, check out the Petrovaradin Citadel, which dominates the town’s skyline. The view of the beautiful Danube River from here is truly stunning.
Essential information
WHEN TO GO: The party continues in Belgrade whatever the weather.
GETTING THERE: JAT Airways (jat.com) fly direct to Belgrade.
VISAS: Australians and New Zealanders don’t need visas. South Africans do.
CURRENCY: Serbian dinar. 1 GBP = 128.59 RSD.
LANGUAGE: Serbian.
GETTING AROUND: You can explore the city centre on foot, but if you want to go further, taxis are cheap.
GOING OUT: A beer costs about 200 RSD.
ACCOMMODATION: A dorm bed from 900 RSD and private rooms from 1500 RSD.
GET MORE INFO AT: serbia.travel
Related: Destination guide – Serbia
