The scene: The Cadogan Arms is a bit of a trek from the Tube
– taking about 15 minutes, which means my friend Anna and I are
freezing by the time we arrive. The warm atmosphere inside soon thaws
us out, and we’re shown to our table. Looking around, it’s clear
someone is a fan of taxidermy – there are ‘trophies’ of various
animals over the dark mahogany walls, giving the place a masculine
It has been revamped, mixing modern and old-man pub
styles with a pool hall upstairs, producing a venue that seems slightly
confused about what it is.
The menu: It’s meaty – offering rabbit and partridge as well
as haddock and rock oysters. There’s only one veggie main course.
both go for the Jerusalem artichoke soup, which is delicious – and
we’re given a tip by our waitress to fish out the tasty watercress
dumplings at the bottom.
For mains, I opt for Mrs Kirkham’s
Lancashire and caramelised onion tart, which is more like a quiche and
comes out luke warm, so I’m unsure as to whether it’s a hot or cold
dish, with hand-cut chips and a side of curly kale.
Anna delves into
her special of Osso Buco – braised veal shin served with a creamy mustard mash – which she devours, giving it the thumbs-up.
We wash it all down with a bottle (or two) of delightful Chilean Merlot (£17).
Bill please: Starters from £5, mains from £11 and desserts from £5.
Verdict: Upscale pub; ideal to meet in after work.
298 King’s Road, SW3, South Kensington
020 7352 6500
Review: Carol Driver