Think %u2018Spanish beach%u2019, and what might usually come to mind
is a packed strip of sand blighted by high-rise hotels where
the closest thing to culture is a tacky theme pub %u2013 but not in
San Sebastin.
It backs onto magnificent buildings from the Belle Epoque,
Baroque churches in elegant squares and Basque bars serving
that tapas. Add festivals for jazz, film and local culture, and
short hikes for great views, and this city has something for
everyone %u2013 there%u2019s even a beach for surfies.
By day, take in one of those beaches before strolling into
the Old Town for churches, museums and galleries %u2013 not to
mention shopping. When you need a rest, pop into a bar,
and as you sip your wine or beer, help yourself to %u2018pinxto%u2019.
Served on a tray, this is tapas Basque-style, distinguished by
toothpicks that skewer anything from fresh fish and squid to
peppers and croquettes before lodging in a piece of bread.
San Sebastin is best explored on foot, but if you fancy
transport %u2013 and this being the %u2018Green%u2019 Coast %u2013 go eco in
the txita, that%u2019s Basque for %u2018chick%u2019, a glorified rickshaw that
operates as a bike-taxi service from June to September;
or the Segway, an electric two-wheeler that can even
be delivered to your hotel; and don%u2019t forget the bicycle,
available from Dbizi, the municipal bike rental service (%u20AC15/
day). A San Sebastin Card gives you several bus rides as well
as discounts in museums, shops and restaurants (three days
%u20AC8; five days %u20AC15). For taxis, bear in mind they can only be
hired from designated ranks unless you phone for one.
Here are our highlights for San Sebastin%u2026
Beaches
With its sweeping view of the bay, Santa Clara island and
those Belle Epoque buildings, Playa de la Concha is one of
Europe%u2019s best city beaches. You can hire umbrellas, tents and
lounge chairs %u2013 the WC is free %u2013 while across the Rio Urumea
at Playa de la Zurriola the hip and fit can do some surfing.
Parte Vieja
The Old Town boasts two of the city%u2019s finest churches: San
Vicente and the Basilica of Santa Maria, one Gothic, the
other Baroque; while a 16th-century Dominican convent now
serves as the excellent San Telmo Museum of Basque Society
and Citizenship (santelmomuseoa.com). There are high-end
shops here too, ranging from designer goods to ethnic gear
Think ‘Spanish beach’, and what might usually come to mind is a packed strip of sand blighted by high-rise hotels where the closest thing to culture is a tacky theme pub – but not in San Sebastián.
It backs onto magnificent buildings from the Belle Epoque, Baroque churches in elegant squares and Basque bars serve that tapas. Add festivals for jazz, film and local culture, and short hikes for great views, and this city has something for everyone – there’s even a beach for surfies.
By day, take in one of those beaches before strolling into the Old Town for churches, museums and galleries – not to mention shopping. When you need a rest, pop into a bar, and as you sip your wine or beer, help yourself to ‘pinxto’. Served on a tray, this is tapas Basque-style, distinguished by toothpicks that skewer anything from fresh fish and squid to peppers and croquettes before lodging in a piece of bread.
San Sebastián is best explored on foot, but if you fancy transport – and this being the ‘Green’ Coast – go eco in the txita, that’s Basque for ‘chick’, a glorified rickshaw that operates as a bike-taxi service from June to September; or the Segway, an electric two-wheeler that can even be delivered to your hotel; and don’t forget the bicycle, available from Dbizi, the municipal bike rental service (€15/ day).
A San Sebastián Card gives you several bus rides as well as discounts in museums, shops and restaurants (three days €8; five days €15). For taxis, bear in mind they can only be hired from designated ranks unless you phone for one.
So, without further ado, here are our highlights for San Sebastián…
Beaches:
With its sweeping view of the bay, Santa Clara island and those Belle Epoque buildings, Playa de la Concha is one of Europe’s best city beaches. You can hire umbrellas, tents and lounge chairs – the WC is free – while across the Rio Urumea at Playa de la Zurriola the hip and fit can do some surfing.
Parte Vieja:
The Old Town boasts two of the city’s finest churches: San Vicente and the Basilica of Santa Maria, one Gothic, the other Baroque; while a 16th-century Dominican convent now serves as the excellent San Telmo Museum of Basque Society and Citizenship. There are high-end shops here too, ranging from designer goods to ethnic gear.
–
Festivals:
Whenever you’re there, you’re bound to get a fiesta. Majorones include San Sebastián Day on January 20, Carnavalin mid-February and Semana Grande in mid-August. All celebrate Basque culture with not a little drinking. The renowned International Film Festival takes place in September, the International Jazz Festival in July. Nearby, Bilbao also hosts the epic Bilbao BBK Music Festival – definitely not one to miss.
Nightlife:
No clubber should miss Bataplan, the coolest venue in town. Partying starts at 1pm, and if you get a pass at a bar beforehand, entry is free. One of those bars is Ondarra, blasting out block-rockin’ beats downstairs. For something more mellow, try bars Altxerri and Be Bop for blues and jazz.
Monte Igueldo:
After a hard night’s partying, clear your head by climbing this hill. If that’s too much, take the funicular railway. Either way, when you reach the top, you’ll get high all over again: on the spectacular view of city, beach and the bay that opens out into Biscay. Follow the Costa Verde eastwards and you’ll see the Pyrenees.
Where to eat:
Budget: With its dish of the day only €9, you can’t beat La Zurri. On the waterfront, this seafood restaurant serves up simple Basque dishes and is popular with locals. It doesn’t accept credit cards, but you won’t need one
Mid-range: A traditional Basque restaurant near the city’s Aquarium, La Rampa offers fine fish and seafood as well as terrific views of the sea. Specialities include hake and grilled cod steak to be washed down with local cider – and all brought by English-speaking waiters.
Luxury: After Kyoto, San Sebastian boasts more Michelin stars per square metre than any city in the world. One reason is Mugaritz. Currently ranked the world’s fourth best, this three-star restaurant offers a personalised menu of approximately 20 dishes, the standout being chocolate cake with cold almond cream and cocoa bubbles. Book well in advance.
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Where to party:
Budget: In Basque country, a bar is judged as much by its pinxtos as its booze. The neighbourhood of Gros is now competing with the Old Town for top spot, so hang out with the locals in Bergara Bar and try kalimotxo, a local drink with an equal mix of wine and Cola.
Mid-range: Cider is a local speciality, so head for a sidreria– that’s ‘cider house’ in Basque – and have it served straight from the barrel. There are several in and around the city. Just three minutes from Playa Zurriola, Sidreria Intxaurrondo is a good place to start.
Luxury: Right in the heart of the Old Town, on la Plaza de la Constitucion, at Astelena you’re paying for location. But it’s worth every euro as you tuck into some of the tastiest pinxtos in the city: from ‘Basque-Asian fusion’ to a foie-gras base. Nibble them with txakoli, the Basques’ own brand of sparkling white wine.
Where to stay:
Budget: With loads of shared space – including two terraces, a room for watching DVDs and mixed-dorms – it’s no surprise to find a party atmosphere at Olga’s Place. Just a minute’s walk from Playa Zurriola, its clean rooms, free internet and friendly staff help make this the city’s number one hostel.From £13pp/pn.
Mid-range: Situated on Monte Igueldo, Hotel Avenida provides awesome views. There’s a pool, garden and gym, while all rooms have free wi-fi as well as a mini-bar and safe. With Rekondo restaurant next door serving traditional dishes and some of the best Basque wine in the region, you’ll never want to come down. From £46pp/pn.
Luxury: If you fancy mixing with the stars, head for Maria Cristina, an opulent Belle Epoque hotel across from Victoria Eugenia Theatre. It’s Brad Pitt’s favourite during the Film Festival, and once you’ve set eyes on its sumptuous decor, marble bathrooms and haute cuisine, it’ll be yours too. From £153pp/pn.
