Held in the Red Gallery, near Old Street, the December event is called Live & Let Pie (so it’s all about the pies). We wander through a tiny art space, into the back of the venue and down some tatty-looking stairs, where lines of tables and chairs have been set out in warehouse space with high ceilings. There’s a DJ, funky lighting and a crowd of people.

THE GRUB: It’s a set, four-course menu, so tell the organisers in advance if you have dietary requirements. Staff hand out a delicious selection of canapes – the wild mushroom and shallots is divine – before we take our seats for the main event. With more than 120 people, this is cooking for the masses at its finest.

The meateaters start with Fred’s vanilla fish pie, which, packed with lobster, scallop, salmon, mussels, lobster bisque and mash, is compact but delicious; while the veggies get braised artichoke, olives, green beans in a fresh, tangy tomato base. The only complaint is that there isn’t enough!

The room is alive with chatter, so we soak up the atmosphere, along with a bottle of red, as we wait for our mains. My husband is served rabbit and crayfish pie, cooked with Earl Grey sauce, truffles and soft but flaky puff pastry. The melt-in-the-mouth meat is given the thumbs up. My tartiflette of butternut squash, reblochon, onion and mashed potato topped with pastry is delicious.

We are almost too full for the apple crumble with custard, and then the cheeseboard, but we push on, before pulling on our dancing shoes.

BEHIND THE BAR: Wines divided into: Good, at £20; Very Good, at £25; and Really Very Good, at £40. There’s also lager at £3.50, cocktails at £6.50 and spirits at £5.50.

BILL PLEASE: £50pp including a welcome glass of fizz.

VERDICT: Its quirkiness helps to make this a fun night out. Grab a group of mates and eat like kings, then boogie the night away. 

%TNT Magazine% stars 4

Various locations 

Review: Carol Driver