It’s undergone a bit of a facelift, though, with the interior redesigned and refurbed – bare brick walls and exposed stonework give a rural feel that transports you far from the busy Clapham High Street outside, while the high ceilings and an open kitchen make it a bustling, lively place in which to sit down and dine.

The grub We kick off with some deep-fried squid (a sea-bred delight) and chilli king prawns (a flavour-spouting, fiery appetiser). There are fish (stone bass) and meat (chicken breast, pork belly) options along with pasta dishes (salmon and prawn penne), but I can’t help but plump for one of their locally famous pizzas.

You’d never think of a calzone as a menu’s healthy option, but Eco offers an aubergine and mixed grilled vegetable spin on the famous cheese and ham carb-overload. I decide it is not the day to be healthy though, and tackle the real deal, which arrives a towering, folded dream of stringy mozarella, wild mushroom, artichoke and home-baked ham.

My girlfriend eyes my main with jealousy, but only until her seafood ragu spaghettini special arrives. It is loaded with squid, octopus and tiger prawns and is, thankfully for me, eminently pickable. In the interests of fairness, we opt for sharesies. We should listen to our bellies and stop there, but indulgence is all to easily caved in to.

After a browse of the dessert menu, we finish up with a deliciously silky pistachio panna cotta between the two of us.

Behind the bar We choose a crisp and refreshing Principato pinot grigio (£15.95), the perfect accompaniment for both the food and the balmy summer’s evening. Bill please Starters from £3.25; mains from £5.95; desserts from £4.95. 

Verdict The new look is gorgeous and the food top drawer, but what astounded us was the bill – quality food and friendly attentive service is rarely this affordable. Eco is a regular visit destination – it’s clear why it is such a local fave. 

%TNT Magazine% stars 4

162 Clapham High Street, SW4 7UG  
Tube | Clapham Common