Berlin has always been in a state of flux. The Weimar Republic segued into two world wars, which led to 40 years of the German Democratic Republic (GDR) and the division of the city between East and West. Its unique circumstances have forged an unusual blend of dark history and cutting-edge alternative culture that can’t be found elsewhere.
The Berlin Wall
The Hauptstadt (capital) can never forget the Nazi era and it is remembered in-situ, at the free Topography of Terror exhibition (topographie.de). But try saying Berlin without thinking “Wall”. At the rejuvenated Bernauer Str. Documentation Centre, a preserved section of concrete wall reminds visitors that only two decades ago, there were killer dogs, tripwire guns and mines here.
This ‘death strip’ split communist East from capitalist West from 1961-1989. The Wall went up suddenly, separating brothers from sisters, wives from husbands and parents from children.
A list remembers hundreds killed trying to flee to the West. And a black and white film shows desperate pensioners, whose flats suddenly straddled the newly fortified border, jumping to their freedom from windows into blankets held by West Berlin firemen. Under our feet, students escaped through tunnels.
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Big brother
The Chapel of Reconciliation is a reminder of the church that stood here, destroyed by the East German army when as late as 1985 they continued to reinforce the barrier they told citizens was for their own protection. The television tower at Alexanderplatz – East Berlin’s Leicester Square – is visible from here; two fingers to the West, but a reminder to the East that you were always watched.
Squat scene
When the East opened up in ‘89-90, squatters took advantage of empty buildings in no-man’s land or others that had escaped redevelopment.
Some are legal, some are still shut down; but they offer everything from bargain cafes and cheap bars to anarchist book clubs and unofficial ‘universities’ and childcare. They’re also noted for great all-night parties with bargain booze and underground DJs.
The scene is so established that there’s a listings website (stressfaktor.squat.net). At squat Koepi (koepi137.net), you’re as likely to find a debating group as a group of friends enjoying a DVD.
While over at New Yorck (yorck59.net), children mill about the coffee bar where organic cake is on offer for a token cost that embodies the idea that everyone should be able to afford to eat.
Art attack
East Berlin’s hip Friedrichshain is closely associated with squatting but is gradually gentrifying as the word gets out.
On Rigaer Str. squats are easily identified by all-over artwork brightening up grey streets. “We’re staying!” says a friendly young Latvian, echoing the words on a banner above his head.
“This is our home and we like it here. Why should we move?” But the bar with €1 beers on Mitte’s Brunnen Str. has gone and, as Berlin continues to develop; some speculate it may lose its alternative edge.
History never stands still, so if you want to see a slice of Berlin’s non-conformist past, there’s no time like the present.
Essential information
GETTING THERE: Ryanair and easyJet fly direct.
GETTING AROUND: A 24-hour bus/tram/train/subway pass costs €6.80 (£5.80) for zones ABC (inc. Schoenefeld airport).
VISAS: South Africans need a Schengen Visa.
CURRENCY: Euro. 1 GBP = 1.19 EUR.
LANGUAGE: German.
GOING OUT: €3 (£2.50) for a bottle.
ACCOMMODATION: Meininger hostels (meininger-hotels.com) are great value from €9 (£7.60) for a dorm. Park Inn Alexand-erplatz (parkinn-berlin.de) has doubles from €63 (£53).
GET MORE INFO: tourist.visitberlin.de
– Simon Cole
