The scene And, in many ways, that’s not far from the truth. For now, however, Church Street and its lovely modern European brasserie, Homa, remain open to the proles.

Homa is in a converted Georgian townhouse. Outside there’s an array of coloured seating, inside they’ve worked hard to make it feel bright and the tables are almost universally well-situated around a skylight.

Almost universally, because the first one we’re plonked down on, despite there being many other empty tables, is clearly what I’d call the dud, behind a whacking great pillar, a place where no table really belongs.

We ask to move, and are grudgingly allowed.
The exchange sets the tone for the rest of the evening.

The grub Ordering is more of an ordeal than it ought to be, so thrown is our waitress by the question as to whether a dish has nuts in it or not. A question on top of being asked to move?

The food itself is excellent: my starter of heritage tomatoes and mozzarella with basil puree is wonderfully fresh and balanced, and the main dish of rib steak with truffle potato puree and broad beans tastes as it looks, beautiful.

My dining partner is impressed with her confit duck and describes her hake as tasting “almost good enough to abide the service”. I ask for whisky, but I’m told they’ve run out, although I’m sure I spy a half-full bottle on the shelf.

We then have to almost plead for the bill, from which we don’t hesitate to ask to have the service charge removed.

Behind the bar An impressive wine list starting at £21 per bottle. Beer from £3.50.

Bill please
Starters from £6.50; mains from £12; sides £4; desserts from £5.50.

Verdict Really reasonably priced, fine dining-quality food and I dare say our experience wasn’t indicative of the restaurant’s service generally.

71-73 Church Street, N16 0AS 
Tube | Manor House 
Station | Stoke Newington

%TNT Magazine% stars 3