The scene: Konstam is the brainchild of local foodie Oliver Rowe, who’s committed to sourcing 80 per cent of what’s served in his lovely dining room from produce grown or reared within the area of the Tube network.

The grub: The menu is completely seasonal. My delicious skate cheek starter was served on a bed of King’s Cross leeks. A main of delectable plaice was from Mersea Island in Essex. The kitchen has pride of place in the centre of the dining room, which makes for great theatre.

Behind the bar: Plenty of London-brewed beers thanks to Meantime in Greenwich. A good mix of European and English wines from £18.

Bill please: Dinner for two, including wine, came to £65.

Verdict: A true London gem that’s not afraid to take a stand on air miles without compromising taste.

4/5

2 Acton St, WC1X 9NA
020 7833 5040
Tube: King’s Cross

SAMANTHA BADEN