The grub It’s British country fare – the stuff of country pubs frequented by seasoned game hunters, but as it’s in the city, there’s a twist for modern tastes. The menu changes daily and gives you a lowdown of what’s in season. When we visit, blood orange, wild nettles, English asparagus and rabbit all feature in many of the dishes.

The honey roast kiln salmon with beetroot is sticky and cooked to perfection, its horseradish providing a subtle kick. My friend’s spring pea, broad bean, radish and dandelion salad, goat’s curd and walnuts looks lush and hearty. The main course of chargrilled skate wing is crispy on one side and tender on the other, and the peas and broad beans that accompany it still have a little bite.

A dessert of an incredibly sweet chocolate kendal mint cake parfait is nothing like the camping snack, but made up of thick chocolate, with super-sweet chunks of the minty stuff. Watch out you don’t fill up on bread before your meal – extra plates of the warm mini country loaves and creamy butter are hard to say no to.

Behind the bar Wine and beer are the main focus here. There’s a stirling wine list, with plenty of mature choices served by the glass and a host of cask ales available on draft. There’s a Jugged Hare pale ale, too, which is brewed in conjunction with Sambrook’s brewery in Battersea.

Bill please Starters from £5; mains from £11; desserts £6; wine from £4.10; beer from £3.50.

Verdict A cosy place to get some good, filling traditional grub and a good quality drink on the side, especially for those in real need of a trip to the Great British countryside. 

49 Chiswell Street, EC1Y 4SA
Tube | Moorgate