The combination of its green grass-like carpet and pink flowers winding up the walls, together with the incredible views and classic British menu, make it a fairly unbeatable spot to contemplate saving the Queen and start peppering your conversation with the likes of “spiffing, old chap”.

The grub: The menu is a ruddy ripping riposte to anyone who questions the quality of Brit cuisine. The bar menu is a little simpler than that of the adjoining restaurant, but if you fancy a serious feed, just ask for the fuller menu and you can have it served up to you in the bar.

A good-value ‘Best of British’ set option offers three courses for £25, but for a proper treat go á la carte and try the Dumfriesshire lamb, which is butchered in-house. Perfectly pink slices are packed with flavour – we swear we could even detect the dairy sipped by this milk-fed creature.

The Old Spot pork chop with black pudding hash and a pile of sweet apple sauce is another highlight – thick, flavoursome and served with expertly crisped crackling. For dessert, you can go traditional with usual suspects such as sticky toffee pudding, or add a twist and order the lemon posset with lavender shortbread.

Behind the bar: Plenty of ales and vinos, but give the cocktails a spin – we loved the sweet and spicy Hot Chilli Passion, a blend of passion fruit and red chilli.

Bill please: Starters from £5.50; mains from £15; desserts from £6.50; wine from £5.50 a glass; cocktails from £7.95.
verdict Great grub at affordable prices in central London.

Verdict: Great grub at affordable prices in central London. A real gem. 4 out of 5 stars.

Words by Laura Chub

36e Shad Thames, SE1 2YE
Tube | London Bridge