In 2-3 days
Day 1
You’ll fly into Apia, a bustling but laid-back port town which makes a good base for a day or two. Visit attractions including Villa Vailima and the Baha’i Temple, both a short distance from town. The food market in the town centre are a fascinating taste of Samoan
life, adjacent to the bus station, which itself is a riot of colour as rainbow buses
pull in and depart.
Day 2
Explore further afield in Upolu. Most of Independent Samoa’s population live on the island and the few roads are lined with fascinating villages. Pop into Robert Louis Stevenson’s former home and then cool off with a swim at the Papapapaitai Falls and a hike in the O le Pupu-Pu’e National Park.
Day 3
Don’t leave without a good day spent lazing on a perfect Upolu beach. If you fancy something more active, drop below the surface on a scuba dive or jump on board a game fishing charter.
In a week
Days 1-3
Check out Apia and parts of Upolu as detailed above.
Days 4-7
As well as Upolu’s other sights and more time spent sunbaking, surfing, fishing or diving, also check out the main South Coast road which is dotted with natural attractions including waterfalls, sink holes and natural swimming holes.
In two weeks +
Take the ferry across to Savai’i, which is a lot less inhabited and has a remote, wild feel. The coastline is awash with great beaches and dive spots. There are many good surfing breaks along this stretch as well. Once you’ve got your salt fix, explore the volcanic interior. Savai’i still bears the scars of relatively recent volcanic activity: lava tubes, flows, craters and blow-holes.