The scene Its proximity to Westminster makes it popular with the political class and its white table cloth appearance (simpler and more spacious than the prior tartan-draped decor) could suggest haughtiness, but this couldn’t be further from the truth.

The emphasis is on quality food and friendly service and in a fun, laid back environment. In this goal, it’s a winner.

The grub We warm up with the celeriac soup and potted shrimps, both of which are a tasty, tantalising beginning.

We then plump for the house specialty, the shepherd’s pie, a rich and creamy treat, and the braised ox cheeks with carrots is a succulent dish that deserves its place as one of the new-look restaurant’s most popular dishes.

They are both worthy of the slavering anticipation with which we eye their arrival and their subsequent devouring.

We do opt for an accompanying portion of asparagus but, really, it’s for our collective midriff-watching conscience – this is all about the mains.

With this in mind we share a treacle tart for dessert but, perhaps predictably, we’re left fighting over who gets to enjoy the ‘bigger half’ as all diet-conscious thoughts go out the window once it’s in front of us. 

Behind the bar A generous wine list and selection of lagers and ales are on hand to accompany any dinner choice.

Most impressive is the cocktail list – we can heartily recommend The Old Imperialist (Appleton’s, Licor 43, ginger, maple syrup and cinnamon) and The Smokey (Plymouth Gin with Isle of Jura malt and orange peel).

Bill please Starters from £5; mains from £9.50; desserts from £4.

Wine by the glass from £7; beers from £4.50; cocktails from £8.50.

Verdict Shepherd’s offers top quality food, a stylish environment and a friendly, informed service.

You’ll be stunned when you see the bill – a meal this superb should do far more damage. 

%TNT Magazine% stars 5

Marsham Court, SW1P 4LA  
Tube | Pimlico