The scene Whether you’re a beer connoisseur or a newbie keen to explore more of London’s momentum-gathering craft brew movement, this restaurant set within the Meantime Brewery at Greenwich is custom-made to become your spiritual home.

The low-lit space is dominated by the copper-clad vats that produce this trailblazing outfit’s expertly honed brews, and an arty ‘wave’ of Meantime’s trademark sexy curved beer bottles hangs from the ceiling.

The grub There’s a regular menu of hearty British fare with recommended beer pairings, but for a special evening, book in for a beer and food matching night.

This is what I do, turning up for a night dedicated to US craft beers – five courses, each partnered to a brew.

The experience starts with an introductory talk, during which I slug back three varieties before any food is proffered.

It’s at this point I realise the 12 styles of beer on the schedule (there are four different kinds with the cheese course and a coffee stout to end on) aren’t arriving in taster measures, but substantially topped-up glasses.

The revelation instills in me an uneasy blend of delight and alarm (it’s a work night).

Food-wise, the home-smoked mackerel and pickled cucumber is luxuriously rich without being overwhelming; the follow-up pork terrine is so-so.

I’m amused when the main course, pepper steak, is just that – no accompaniments, just a hulking slab of meat leaking flavour-packed juices and complemented expertly by Anchor Brekle’s Brown ale.

When the dessert of lemon posset comes round, I’m too full of froth to finish, but make valiant attempts from the cheese plate, only to be more taken with an accompanying silky Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout.

The finale of Flying Dog’s Kujo Imperial Coffee Stout is the best yet, a jet-black temptress which, at 8.9 per cent, sends me home staggering.

Bill please Beer and food matching event costs £50pp. The next one, ‘A Brief History Of IPA’, is on Monday, December 3. Bookings essential.

Verdict Top food, out-of-this-world brews, stunning value. Essential.

Pepys Building, Old Royal Naval College, SE10 NLW 
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