When to go
The trains operate all year, whatever the weather — leaves on the line, 3m of snow, you name it. Carriages are heated in winter and well-ventilated in summer (some cabins even have air-con), so you won’t feel the extremes of the continental weather. Fares remain the same year-round.
No prizes for guessing it gets cold outside in winter. Temperatures regularly fall below -20˚C between November and March — but then what’s Siberia without the snow? Summers are warmer, and it can feel hot and humid, with highs of 40˚C in July and August.
Whenever you travel, you’re bound to meet other English-speaking people on the train. Bear in mind, though, that there will be fewer of them in winter, and you could end up on your own if you make stops along the route.
Getting There
Most travellers fly into either Moscow or Beijing to begin their journey. Either way, you can keep it green by travelling between the UK and Russia via the European rail network. If you’re heading east, Beijing is the perfect starting point for overland travel in South-East Asia. Vladivostok really is the end of the line, though. The only place to go from here is Japan, via a summer ferry service.
Onboard the train
Even numbered trains run east from Moscow, and odd numbers terminate there. The lower your train number the posher and faster it will be — with fewer stops and better facilities. The No.2 Rossiya, for example, is the premier service from Moscow to Vladivostok, taking seven days to complete the 9300km journey.
It’s difficult to keep track of time while you’re on the move — the train travels through five different time zones in Russia alone, in the space of a couple of days.
All Russian railways operate on Moscow time (GMT plus three or four hours, depending on the time of year), so it’s worth setting your watch to that so you don’t miss a stop. Remember this when you go to get back on the train, too!
Chinese trains operate on Beijing time (GMT plus eight hours), and most of the trip through Mongolia is likewise in the Beijing time zone.
There are three classes on the trains — first (spalny), second (kupe) and third (platskartny). Most Western travellers go for the four-berth kupe option, though an upgrade to the two-berth spalny carriages will leave you more comfortable.
If you’re travelling DIY and don’t mind sharing, the hubbub of the dormitory-style platskartny might be for you. It’s cheaper, and while you’ll get less privacy, chances are you’ll meet more Russians, drink more vodka, and have more fun.
Every carriage is staffed by an attendant or provodnitsa (male provodniks are more common on the Chinese-operated trains).
Under no circumstances piss her off! This lady will provide you with your bedlinen, food (on trains where it’s served) and snacks, referee any cabin squabbles, haul you onboard when the train is about to leave and generally cater to your wellbeing. She’s also keeper of the toilet key.
You’ll be on the train for days at a time, but amazingly the trip is never dull. You can get off at the regular station stops (check the timetable posted outside the provodnitsa’s office for how long you’ve got) to stretch your legs, take pictures and buy snacks.
Otherwise the days pass in a blur of chatting, deciphering your Russian phrasebook, gazing out the window and nodding off to the rhythm of the train. You’ll never have a more relaxing holiday.
Language barrier
Despite the Chinese script, Beijing is easy to navigate as most signs have translations in English. Russia and Mongolia are trickier as the languages are written in Cyrillic, so you’ll have to decipher the characters as well as the words.
Don’t expect locals anywhere along the route to speak English.
Visas and border control
Everyone needs separate visas for each country they visit. Allow plenty of time to sort them out before you leave, and budget accordingly — the costs soon add up. Some tour operators offer a visa service for an additional fee, and it’s worth taking them up on it to avoid hassle.
You’ll also collect a stash of customs forms at each border crossing, which you’ll need to keep safe to avoid problems later.
Cost
While it’s possible to organise a Trans-Siberian trip under your own steam, there’s a lot of legwork involved. The rules for buying train tickets are different in each country, and there’s extra red tape involved for foreign tourists.
Booking a tailored route through a tour operator is a more cost-effective option, especially if you’re an inexperienced traveller or are making the journey alone.
Apart from organising your tickets, the operator will arrange pick-ups and drop-offs by English-speaking guides, and for activities and accommodation along the way. Hotels are the norm for the terminal cities, but at smaller destinations you’ll usually be put up in a homestay. If you stop over in Mongolia, you’ll probably get the chance to stay in a ger.
