VOC bar
The scene: Inspired by the Dutch East India Company, VOC is a
modern twist on a 17th-century punch house. Candles and lanterns dimly
light the exposed brick walls that are punctuated with old maps and big
warehouse-style windows, while punters sit on deep sofas and bar stools
as modern folk and indie music plays (over a backing track of
seagulls).
The grub: Basic bar snacks like bruschetta, olives and anchovies on toast.
Behind the bar: You’ll find no Mojitos here – drinks are best
described as 21st-century molecular mixology meets ingredients traded
more than 300 years ago. Staring down at you from behind the wooden bar
are corked clear-glass bottles filled with spirits, and barrels of
ageing speciality punches. We start with a Dog’s Nose, made with
Tanqueray, fresh horseradish, apple porter, citrus, spices, vanilla
sugar and honey. Served warm, it’s like mulled wine with a bit more
venom. Next on to the more decadent Improved Admiral Flip – a wintery
mix of champagne, syrupy apricot brandy, cognac and flaky chocolate
bitters.
Bill please: Cocktails and punch cost from £7.50.
Verdict: It’s worth it for the novelty value and brilliantly
composed cocktails, but the theme makes it an odd place for a regular
hangout.
3/5
2 Varnishers Yard, Regents Quarter, N1 9AW
voc-london.co.uk
Tube: King’s Cross St Pancras
– Clare Vooght
