On ‘Cloud 9’ with Nefeli Nine

Hiking and Yoga Retreat in Greece’s finest spots

Stepping out of my transfer, having arrived in the charming village of Dikastika, just 26 km outside Athens, I take a calming breath. I’ve not even unrolled my yoga mat. I’m here for a week-long yoga and hiking retreat with Nefeli Nine and the view of the villa perched atop the cliffs across the Aegean Sea is simply stunning. I can barely tear myself away to go inside.

I’m greeted with open arms by Stephanie Contomichalos, founder of Nefeli Nine Retreats, and her team. I feel at home as I sip herbal tea and nibble on homemade cookies. Stephanie runs numerous retreats in various locations in Greece showcasing the unpretentious richness of rustic Greek life through walking and yoga holidays. This allows guests to experience natural beauty far removed from the tourist humdrum of the big city.

In ancient Greek mythology, Nefeli was a cloud nymph, the goddess of hospitality, generosity, peace and loyalty, Steph (we’re on friendly terms immediately) informs me. The fact that the villa is named ‘Villa Nefeli’ is sheer coincidence, she beams. Perhaps it’s divine intervention by the goddess, I think to myself.

Steph has been running yoga retreats for almost five years. She wanted to offer something a bit different and edgy to copious retreats out there. Hers are all about allowing guests to connect with the land, eat the food and drink that hail from it, soak up the unspoilt beauty and rural scenery on foot and stay grounded on the yoga mat. This is my idea of bliss.

We’re a group of seven (maximum group size is eight) like-minded folk hailing from Dubai, Sudan, Germany, Greece and the UK. We bond over the first dinner following an initiation yoga class led by yoga instructor Eirini (meaning peace). The villa is exceptionally cosy with an outdoor swimming pool, a terrace with loungers, a communal area, a dining space and spacious bedrooms.

Days begin at a respectable 8 o’clock with an energising yoga flow session designed to wake the mind and body. Eirini, our yoga instructor, fell in love with yoga over 10 years ago while living in Melbourne, Australia. Her classes combine yoga tradition with science-based tools and practices. She tells us she intends to help practitioners raise self-awareness and unlock their full potential.

Sadly, due to strong gusty winds, we’re unable to practice yoga on the veranda by the pool while listening to birdsong. However, Eirini’s soothing voice as we begin our session takes the edge off. And the session leaves us energised for the day ahead.

There’s nothing I like more than exploring a new area, and I’m ready to hike. Archelaos has been an adventure guide for five years. His philosophy is to explore nature’s gifts and share them with his clients. Day one begins with gusto as we drive to Ancient Rhamnous. Years ago, it was an ancient Greek city situated in northeast Attica, about 55 kilometres away from Athens. In antiquity, it was best known for the Sanctuary of Nemesis, the goddess of vengeance.

It’s still windy, but I don’t let that affect me. The fact that I’m outdoors and feeling the fresh air on my face is enough to propel me to put one foot in front of the other. The hike is pleasant as we reach the first part of the sanctuary of Nemesis; the ancient goddess of retribution. We take time to explore the remains of two temples – the first dating back to the 6th century and the second devoted to Nemesis and Themis built around 460 BC.

I can’t resist glimpses of the sea, and I’m delighted to see it appear as I head along the rocky trail towards the fortified acropolis of Rhamnous, perched on a small hill above it. I follow Archelaos’s lead as he weaves me through the fortress’s narrow lanes, pointing out the remains of a theatre, gymnasium, small Dionysos sanctuary and several other dwellings. I reimagine what life must have been like here as I stand and admire the beauty of my surroundings.

While it’s easy to flop on one of the couches at the villa, getting on the mat with Eirini for an evening relaxing yoga session is a better way to alleviate aching muscles. The slow flow is grounding and prepares me for sleep. Post dinner, I sleep soundly with the lights turned out before 10.

I’m a keen and experienced hiker and relish in long-distance hikes upwards of 10 to 15 kms. But I live in a flat area so I’m in for a treat with the elevation of the walks Archelaos has planned for the week.

Some of the best hikes I find are hidden in plain sight. Mount Ymittos, forming the natural eastern boundary of Athens, is one of them. Here, the dense city grid suddenly gives way to a tree-covered slope dotted with monasteries. This is the ‘Aesthetic Forest of Kesariani,’ a protected nature reserve just a 20-minute ride from Athens.

It’s a fairly strenuous upward climb, meandering through mainly pine and cypress trees, but well worth it for the views from various windows in the forest. We also pass the olive groves before eventually arriving at the Kesariani Monastery. It’s one of the few remaining medieval sites in Athens.

Eirini and Steph’s enthusiasm has us holding yoga poses for a picture. The descent is pleasurable, and we learn about flora and fauna pointed out by Archelaos. It turns out he doubles up as a botany genius. (he runs a blog about Greek Plant Stories.) There’s plenty of wild garlic here. I take a nibble. It’s rich and flavoursome. But I leave my appetite for lunch at the delectable traditional Greek restaurant Rakaki (more on food later – much more!)

Mount Penteli is my favourite hike of the week (although it’s a tough conclusion). It’s one of the four ranges that cradle Athens and, at 1,006 metres, is the second-highest summit after Mount Parnitha. Penteli marble has long been prized for its purity. The marble quarries here operated from around the 6th century B.C. until the 1940s. Much of the Acropolis and the ancient city of Athens were built from it.

The other hikes take us along gentler elevation and terrain, one along Schinias Beach through a forest directly from the villa and the other a coastal hike along Sesi. Both culminate in great food from local taverns who bring an amazing array of food to refuel us.

Talking of food, I could write a whole chapter about the dishes served at Nefeli Nine. The food is genuinely made with pure love. You only have to listen to see Steph becoming animated when she talks about food, let alone prepare and serve it to you with her own hands.

A banquet-style feast is laid on at breakfast and dinner (lunches too, when not eating out). The sharing of food with others is what makes mealtimes that extra special, where the food, wine and chatter flow seamlessly. Stephanie is a staunch believer of the Blue Zones diet – a largely plant-based diet followed by five areas around the globe with a high ratio of centenarians.

While the food is mainly vegan and vegetarian, expect fish on the menu. And I can say hands down even the carnivores amongst us were happy with taking a break from meat during the week. There are too many dishes to pick out as being showstoppers not least all the local cheeses and breads.

So give yourself permission to salivate for a moment as I talk you through some of the delicious dishes. Think home-made granola served with Greek yoghurt for breakfast, roasted beetroot salad and roasted cherry tomatoes and white beans for lunch and spinach and chickpea stew and cauliflower three ways for dinner. And if that’s not gut-busting, Steph has snacks in the shape of ‘Ferrero Rocher’ flavour energy balls for hikes.

Nefeli Nine Retreats are balanced well-being weeks focused on fitness, travel exploration and good, no, make that exceptional – food. It’s for those who want to have an active holiday minus a competitive environment. You can do as little or as much as you want. It’s your holiday, your mind, your body. No one will judge you. And that’s the beauty of the Greek lifestyle. It’s relaxed, it’s welcoming, and it allows you to just be.

Website: https://www.nefelinine.com/
Contact: Steph@NefeliNine.com or phone +30 697 418 4632
Fly – Flights from the UK to Athens. Return transfers from and to the airport (50 minutes) are included in the retreat programme