I’m at Bilbao BBK 2013 and, well yes, it does – this year, The Prodigy are headlining. There’s little doubt that you, dear reader, are in the UK so you can travel until you can’t stand up properly without a backpack on. There’s also little doubt that you don’t enjoy an event where you can enjoy a little bevvie, see your favourite bands perform live, and wear a sleeping bag suit in public. So, by heading to Europe to take in a music festival, you can combine two of your favourite pastimes. And this is why, having experienced it firsthand, I recommend Bilbao BBK Live.
Birthed in 2006, the fest has seen the likes of Pearl Jam, Kaiser Chiefs and Radiohead take to its stages, and has been steadily rising in size and profile year on year as the demand for tickets has exploded since its inception. It’s scooped numerous fest award noms for Best European Fest (UK Fest Awards 2010 and 2011) and Best Medium-Sized European Festival (European Fest Awards 2009 to 2011). Having taken it in last year, it is clear to see why – its combination of intimate surrounds with bumper bands an irresistible appeal.
This year has already got the likes of aforementioned The Prodigy, Ohio garage rock duo The Black Keys, electrostars Polica, Scot-indie rock outfit Franz Ferdinand (and their infamous pointy shoes), MGMT and English folk rock superstar Frank Turner along with his Sleeping Souls, already confirmed to star at this multi-stage three-day event. But, unlike many music events this summer, it is far more than just a ‘fest in a field’.
Located in Kobetamendi Park, which is atop Mount Cobestas overlooking the city of Bilbao, you are treated to fantastic views, not to mention a unique, secluded atmosphere as evening descends and the music kicks off. And it is this evening-and-night-time set-up at Euro fests, BBK Live especially, that means they can be so much more than a beer-fuelled fight on through from lunch to midnight as Brit-fests often become (not least by the Brits). This leaves you free to occupy your days with recovery, should you need it, or, as I opted for, exploring the city and taking in all the region has to offer.
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Bilbao city itself is a thriving destination; its post-industrialist make-up meaning, while the port business has dwindled, it has reinvented itself as cultural melting pot of music, art, architecture and gastronomic delight. The Guggenheim, sitting proudly in the centre of town, is one of the city’s chief attractions, and rightly so. Standing like a towering combination of shining silver shells, its design – by Frank Gehry – is a wondrous spectacle of its own, with Jeff Koons’ giant floral Puppy standing at the front (it was meant to be a temporary piece but was liked so much it has become a permanent entrance welcome)
This level of wonder is kept through the impressive myriad of rooms and levels inside that take in everything from world-renowned artists such as David Hockney and Willem De Kooning, to local Basque talent – the star-studded L’Art En Guerre show last summer was a particular stunner that took two afternoons of my time to take in. Big shows this year include none other than Yoko Ono’s Half-A-Wind, a multi-disciplinary retrospective incorporating more than 200 pieces taking in everything from films, paintings, photos, installations and documented performances, illustrating this most diverse of artists.
Hopping on the subway for a couple of stops out of town one afternoon, I took in one of the most impressive structures the city has to boast, yet one that is too infrequently visited. Jumping off the Metro before making my way through a rabbit warren of houses and apartments I walked out onto the river side where the towering Vizcaya Bridge stands. A suspension bridge dating back to 1893, it is one of the earliest of its kind – and one that is still in operation today – and holds the lofty accolade of being designed by Alberto Palacio, a protégé of Gustave Eiffel (yes he of many-a famous Parisian photo op).
It runs across the Nervion River every eight minutes and has a lift on either side allowing you to stroll across its 164m width at a height of 50m. However, although the views of the city, the port and coast are breathtaking, its minimal design means it is not for those prone to the odd moment of vertigo (like myself), who might quickly find themselves grabbing the arm rails for some semblance of comfort. (They offered little, much to the amusement of locals showing out-of-town family their proud heritage.)
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If the industrial heritage of the city is in decline, its proud Basque history is very much the opposite. Situated in the heart of Basque Country, the city is proud of its origins – Basque not Spanish! – and this shines through in everything from the food to the local football team: Athletic Bilbao, also known as Los Leones, The Lions.
A stroll around the city’s old town, the Casco Viejo, and a trip to the Plaza Nueva, both east of the city, allowed me to venture down narrow winding streets, and into ancient churches and designer shops. Moreover, it is the local pinxtos – a Basque variant of Spanish tapas – that floods the streets with a delicious aroma. An assortment of meat, vegetable and fish served up on toasted bread, it is a local snack that’s enjoyed at all times of the day – and often with a cheekyglass of vino, a tradition I was only too happy to abide by. Strolling around this area of town, it is clear to see how the past has met with the present to form contemporary Bilbao, which brings the best of both worlds together in a beautiful and imposing whole.
But if a week of cultural indulgence is not enough, then Bilbao has the benefits of a seaside holiday too. A short subway journey brings you to the northern coast of the city limits and Basque region (on the Spanish side), which offers a plethora of watersports, beach-side cafes and bars to explore, which I gladly did. First stop was the expansive plains of Plentzia, a sheltered beach ideal for those looking to kick back and take in some more genteel water activities. Perfect for soothing the post first-night hangover of BBK fest, I took in a load of paddle boarding on its calm and tranquil waters before kayaking out. A word of warning though, even to sun-weathered Aussies: make sure the sunscreen you apply is a high factor and water-resistant. Two hours of paddling in the midday sun leaves you with red-as-hell shins (a new one for me) and a very unflattering life jacket tan line.
If you want to take in some more adventurous beach life, then head to Bakio: the waves are unfiltered by artificial harbour defences, like they are in Plentzia, and the surrounding life is a little more grown-up orientated with bars taking prominence over cafes and eateries. Sadly, my journey here took place the day after the Plentzia debacle, by which point the skin covering my lower legs had turned a nice blood-red colour and had stretched tight as a wetsuit. This limited my surfing activities to hiding in the shade with nothing but my embarrassment for company as I watched the rest of my pals board out and take it on.
Another top feature of the Bilbao fest is that it is only a couple of hours away from the UK, meaning it is possible to make it for a long weekend. The festival runs from Thursday night to Saturday night, so you can be back for work on the Monday if needs be. It’s also a fraction of the price of other Euro and Brit fests (three-day tickets with camping cost £92) with week-long package deals available too. Whichever way you look at it, Bilbao BBK is a bargain. Bands, beaches, and cultural education to round off the debauchery, just try and take it all in. I tried and failed, so can’t wait to get back this year. See you there…
Bilbao BBK Live runs from July 10 – 12.
For more info and to book tickets, click here.
