The Italian island of Ponza is often forgotten beside its more famous sister Capri, but is a destination of spectacular beauty, offering great views from its cliff walls of the emerald waters of the Mediterranean.
The island, only 8km long, is situated south of Rome and is surrounded by the smaller islands of Ventotene, Zanone, Palmarole and Santo Stefano.
When the luxury yachts start lifting their anchors by the end of August, the island is left to the colourful fishing boats, comfortable fish restaurants, silence and nature.
I lose myself in the beauty of these sunsets and find paradise on Earth,” the Italian author and Nobel Prize laureate Eugenio Montale once wrote about the island.
Ponza is good alternative in August to the more expensive Sardinia, and is a favourite holiday destination for many Romans. Many of the wealthier city dwellers come here for an extended weekend during the summer, or stay for an entire month. Most rent a house or a small apartment as there are only about a dozen hotels on the island.
During the main summer season Ponza is popular among younger visitors. There is plenty of partying and dancing in the disco of Covo Nord Est and on the beaches. The main street is often jammed with trucks and motorscooters blowing their horns, where crowds of tourists are seen strolling along the main shopping street, the Corso Pisacane. A real treat is also a visit to the neighbouring islands of Ventotene and Palmarola, perfect for divers and for a swim in the grottos and caves.
Everything changes in September, when the 2300 inhabitants of the town of Ponza are almost left to themselves. This is the time for the divers, hikers, lovers of good food and nature. Numerous beaches of sand and pebbles are true to their names – Cala del Core (Heart Bay), Chiaia di Luna (Moon Bay) and Piscine Naturali (nature swimming baths).
If you head for the Frontone beach, which can only be reached by boat, you will have the crystal-clear water and shady bars almost to yourself.
While in August hip-hop blares from the loudspeakers in the early evening, September offers the sounds of James Taylor and Tiziano Ferro.
Ponza also has plenty of history. Kirke, in Homer’s Odyssey, lures sailors to the island of Eea (the then Greek name for Ponza). The Greeks, who came to Ponza in 700BC, left their gravesites on the mountain top of Chiaia di Luna and the first aqueducts. Later came the Romans, whose works included construction of a tunnel leading to Moon Bay. In the year AD537, Pope Silverio was kidnapped and taken to the island where he died shortly afterwards.
Today, Silverio is the patron saint of Ponza and is honoured every June 20 with a procession and a huge fireworks display.
One of the finest views is from the 283m-high Monte La Guardia from where the cliffs of the Monte Circeo on the mainland can be seen when the weather is clear.”
