It sits squat in a valley between its two greatest sights: the castle and the huge Gothic monument to Scottish freedom fighter, William Wallace. Although it is Scotland’s newest and smallest city, it commands respect for its central role in almost a thousand years of Scottish history and geography. Sometimes known as the Broach of Scotland, its 14th century bridge once provided the only link between the Highlands and lowlands.
Braveheart pilgrimage
Many of Stirling’s visitors are lured by the promise of tracking down the legend behind Braveheart. There is no better place to do this than at the William Wallace monument. There’s a museum, which features his huge sword, and the chance to pose with a William Wallace lookalike. Even if Mel Gibson put you off the great Scot forever, at least visit to see the view from the top – it’s the highest monument in Britain and affords sterling (sorry) views.
Other bonny places
The castle is impressive and a walk around its ramparts, if a little chilly, gives the other panorama across the valley. The old town hall and jail, known as the Tolbooth, has been converted into an upmarket arts centre with classes, exhibitions and regular performances of folk music. In nearby Bridge of Allan, where Stirling University is located, you’ll find the Bridge of Allan microbrewery where you can have a free tour of the factory and get some free samples.
Anyone for haggis?
The food in Stirling is interesting, to say the least – the influx of modern tastes in the last few years mixed with Scottish traditionalism has led to the widespread embracing of fusion cooking: look out for American-Scottish, Italian-Scottish and even Austrian-Scottish. Clive Ramsey’s deli and café in nearby Bridge of Allan offer the best grub: quite cheap and very cheerful. Haggis is a must-try, with no exceptions – the locals recommend it as a top hangover cure.
A wee dram
If you need a decent club nearby on your travels, then it’d be best not to visit Stirling at all. The two local nightclubs are tiny, sweaty meatboxes filled with churlish, tanked-up neds and nedettes (the Scottish version of chavs). The pubs and bars, on the other hand, are excellent: from the Cosmopolitan haunts of Czech bar Pevo and converted bank Cambio, to the oldest pub in Stirling, the Settle Inn, which was founded in the 1700s and has furniture from the 1500s. My personal favourite is the Barton Bar, which is filled with friendly locals and has an Art Deco theme.
Crashing out
The SYHA hostel, HI (St John St; 01786-473 442) is made from a converted church and still surrounded by the local’s gravestones. Likewise, the campsite (open March-November; 01786-474 947) is a little ghoulish: called the Witches’ Craig as witches were thrown off its high craig in the Middle Ages. If this is too spooky for you, head to Willy Wallace’s backpackers (77 Murray Place; 01786-446 773), a lively, welcoming hostel. For those who feel like splashing some cash, there is always the Stirling Highland hotel where a converted school complete with health centre makes for an ultra relaxing stay.
Best bit: It’s compact: 1000 years of history in just three streets.
Not so good: The nightlife
– SARAH WARWICK
