The scene The emphasis is on quality in a stylish laid-back atmosphere determinedly lacking in pretension.
The grub The diverse menu has traditional British pub dishes, all given an exotic twist.
For starters we opt for the spicy pork belly – served with crispy wontons and Singapore noodles, it’s a stirring start to the meal.
The smoked chicken, pistachio and ham hock terrine offers an opposing, but no less tasty, range of flavours.
The rump of Herdwick lamb, with potato croquettes, peas, broad beans, wild garlic and jus, is a hardy, satisfying main, and the pan-fried John Dory, with sea beets, pressed belly of pork and a cucumber salsa and lobster sauce, is an equally divine selection.
Though not sampled, the sharing shoulder of lamb also appears to be highly recommended – it is popular with other diners who we notice are unable to manage its entirety.
As expected, the dessert menu is impressive. We went for a selection of British cheeses, but the traditional knickerbocker glory, sticky toffee pudding (with a ginger twist) and the voodoo doughnut (jam-filled and dipped in chocolate and custard) are enticing.
Behind the bar While the beer, ale and wine selections cater for all palettes, it’s the cocktails that are the Tree’s raison d’etre, many given a sweet, jammy twist and occasionally served in a jar, too.
We sample the Pearl Jam (Pimm’s, gin, Cointreau, cucumber, lime and mint – sweet and refreshing) and the Jam Tree classic, Jam Mojito.
If keen to challenge your sweet tooth, try a pudding cocktail – Jaffaholics Anonymous has Tia Maria, vodka and Mozart Chocolate liqueur.
Bill please Starters from £6.50; mains from £10; desserts from £6; beers from £3.70; glass/bottle of wine from £4.70/£17; cocktails from £7.50.
Verdict A sublime new addition to Clapham’s dining repertoire.
13-19 Old Town, SW4 0JT
Tube | Clapham Common