There are deep-red square lights giving the interior a soft glow, as well as chicwallpaper providing a funky edge. Inside, it’s lively and busy, with a mix of diners looking for a quick bite, or those wanting to make a night of it. The food is on display in the centre of the room – replenished by staff as soon as stocks run low. We simply help ourselves to whatever we fancy (everything is clearly labelled), our plates are then weighed at the bar where we buy drinks. The only danger is piling on too much, and having to pay the price afterwards.

The grub: I’ve brought along my meat-eating husband, who chomps his way through two of most things on offer. There are 35 homemade salads, a hot daily special as well as vegetable dishes and a bunch of dips and chutneys. The special – Indian Jalfrezi – boasts a tantalisingly delicious sauce, and is cooked with cauliflower, bell peppers, courgettes and beans. We also help ourselves to broccoli quiche, rustic celeriac salad, aubergine amaranth and a pile of cream cheese and pepper croquettes. A eclectic mix, but good food nevertheless. Full, but not quite beaten, we finish up with top-class passionfruit cheesecake, made with crème fraiche, digestive biscuits and walnuts, which definitely hits the spot.

Behind the bar: You’ll find everything from hot ginger tea and fresh fruit juices, to cocktails, wines and organic ciders.

Bill please: Create your own lunch for £2.10 per 100g; dinner for 2.30g per 100g. Cocktails from £8; spirits from £2.70; wine from £4.10 a glass, £15.10 a bottle; beer from £4.20 a pint.

Verdict: A decent selection of delicious dishes on offer – you won’t go hungry. And you won’t miss the meat. Just don’t pile on too much.

12-14 Heddon Street, W1B 4DA 
Tube | Piccadilly Circus 

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