Few destinations are as daunting for the first-timer as India. ALISON GRINTER has a few words of advice.
Become a culture vulture
Swotting up on India’s culture will go a long way towards breaking down preconceptions you may have about the country or its people. Rohinton Mistry’s novel A Fine Balance, set during the height of Indira Gandhi’s Emergency in the ’70s, touches on all aspects of Indian life and is as good an introduction to the country as you could hope to get from a single book. Also worth a look is VS Naipaul’s fascinating if weighty socio-political commentary India: A Million Munities Now. For something lighter, check out Holy Cow! An Indian Adventure, by Aussie writer Sarah McDonald, a hilarious account of her life as a foreign correspondent’s wife in New Delhi, or Are You Experienced? by William Sutcliffe.
Women take note: dress appropriately
In the ladies room at a restaurant in Agra, a busty Western woman wearing a clingy top asked me, in all seriousness, why the men were staring at her. Then, as now, I would offer the following advice: in India’s oven-like heat, it’s tempting to dress skimpily. Resist it. Dressing modestly isn’t just about showing respect to the local people, it also protects you from the prying eyes of men. Tops that show off your cleavage are a bad idea, and as for wearing singlet tops and shorts, well, you might as well be naked. Take your lead from local women who don’t bare their shoulders or upper arms, or wear figure-hugging garments. Loose, long-sleeved cotton tops and trousers and skirts are best.
Beware of scams
Unfortunately, there is a select group of con artists on the Indian subcontinent whose sole purpose in life is to find new and inventive ways of separating gullible tourists from their hard-earned cash. Scams range from the simple – squirting green goo on your shoes to necessitate your paying for a shoe shiner to clean it off – to the elaborate, involving ‘international jewel traders’. Keep your wits about you and stay away from deals that sound too good to be true. Bear in mind, though, that most scams take place in touristy areas in big cities, so don’t let them stop you from engaging with friendly locals.
Take your anti-malarials
Naturally, the best way to avoid malaria is to avoid being bitten by mozzies in the first place. But taking anti-malarials will undoubtedly increase your defences against this deadly disease. Some anti-malarials like Malarone only need to be taken a couple of days before you leave and then for one week after you return – perfect if you have the memory of a amnesiac goldfish, though they are more expensive. Likewise, you will need shots for typhoid, diphtheria and hepatitis A, among others. Check with your local GP or visit a travel clinic before you leave home. Allow plenty of time as it sometimes takes a few days for vaccinations to become active.
The poverty factor
For many first-timers, India’s poverty can be confronting and upsetting. It may be tempting to salve your conscience by giving to beggars, but you are probably only lining the pockets of a syndicate. Also, bear in mind that if you hand over a few coins to one beggar you are likely to be besieged by others. Benevolence is a personal deed so it is up to you how you handle this situation. One option is to give to charities already operating in India such as Concern India (www.concernindia.org) or Save The Children India (www.savethechildrenindia.org).
Dealing with touts
Indian touts are among the most aggressive in the world and will think nothing of chasing you down the street to secure a sale. There’s no escaping them, they’re everywhere! To minimise the hassle, avoid eye contact in the first place or simply ignore them and keep walking. If you actually want to buy something, remember to barter – it’s part of the fun. Make sure the price quoted is rupees, not US dollars.
Avoid toilet trauma
Indian toilets can be beyond scary, so take every opportunity you can to use a clean toilet in places such as hotels and restaurants. India is, by and large, a non-toilet-paper-using country, so always carry toilet paper or tissues with you. Antiseptic wipes are a good idea but even better is a bottle of antiseptic gel (from Boots) which will clean up your hands in seconds. If you do fancy going ‘Indian-style’, fill the jug provided with water, and, using your left hand, splash away. (Good luck with this).
Tackling tummy trouble
Make no mistake, India will give you the shits, just ask English cricketer Marcus Trescothick, who toured there this year. The batsman contracted a nasty stomach bug which had him making runs of a different kind, and has since left him with an acute case of India-phobia. But the difference between having a mild stomach upset and being holed up in the dunny for days will depend on how careful you are about what passes your lips. Whatever happens, don’t drink the water. Drink bottled water only. This extends to cleaning your teeth. Avoid milk products and anything sold at food stalls. Go to reputable restaurants and ensure food is piping hot. And, for God’s sakes, carry Imodium tablets with you at all times.
Avoiding curry fatigue
There will come a time, perhaps six or seven days into your trip – after you’ve consumed the equivalent of the entire menu of an Indian restaurant – when you will never want to see curry again. Hell, even McDonald’s will seem appealing. Don’t feel guilty about it, try to find an alternative, even if it is fast food. Mind you, vegetarians don’t seem to have this problem – they’re just so happy to be in a country that caters so completely to their dietary needs they can consume curry ’til the cows come home.
• Alison Grinter travelled to India with On The Go Tours (020-7371 1113; www.onthegotours.com) An eight-day Taj Express tour starts at £399. For more on India, see tourismindia.com.
