Reykjavik’s Iceland Airwaves festival kicks off in October. Party all night then nurse your hangover by soaking in the Blue Lagoon. Janine Jorgensen has a knees-up for TNT…
It’s just above freezing, damp and dark, the kind of night when many would stay indoors or head to a cosy pub. Instead, we’re heading for the Reykjavik Art Museum to see Brighton band Metronomy, who are just one of the many artists at the Iceland Airwaves Festival.
Around us are young, mostly blonde, long-legged locals who don’t seem to feel the cold in retro dresses and short-sleeved vintage jackets. I feel as if we’re in Shoreditch rather than in Iceland’s capital.
Once inside we grab plastic cups of Viking beer and push to the front of the stage as the band, sporting some bizarre costumes, begin their act.
Best of the fest
Iceland Airwaves is an annual weekend music festival held in Reykjavik every October, and its aim is to showcase upcoming music not only from Iceland but from around the world. This year, acts include London’s Bombay Bicycle Club, Denmark’s Oh No Ono, and The Antlers from the US. Bigger names also take part – previous groups include The Shins and Hot Chip, while Robyn has been announced for 2010.
Festival venues span across the capital, from museums and galleries to clubs and pubs. We headbang to Icelandic metal outfit Klink in the moshpit of Sodoma, dance to the ’60s beat of American band The Postelles at Idno, usually a picturesque restaurant overlooking the City Pond, before shuffling on to the crowded dance floor of nightclub Nasa to hear electro outfit FM Belfast.
Gigs galore
Gig-hopping in the early hours is hungry work, but luckily Reykjavik is a year-round party capital with hot dog (pylsur) stands at the ready to feed hungry festival-goers at 4am – Baejarins Beztu by the harbour is one of the best for late-night munchies, or Nonnabiti in the city centre serves meaty subs.
Of course, it also means that bars stay open all night, and when we’ve had enough of the crowds, we take pleasure in a bottle of beer and the jukebox of Bar 11, where patrons include a grey-bearded man in a black cape and a couple of girls dressed as cheerleaders.
Hangover party
The next day, after a much-needed lie-in, we’re on the bus to the Blue Lagoon, one of Iceland’s most visited attractions. At the Hangover Party, a DJ pumps out the tunes and revellers can choose to groove waist-high in the steamy waters or lie back and relax, ready for another night of music.
Must do Reykjavik
Reykjavik is about more than just partying.
Hallgrimskirkja: Climb to the top of this famous Icelandic icon for stunning views of the city’s colourful rooftops and the harbour.
Go shopping: Laugavegur is the main shopping drag, full of craft shops selling woollen goods and puffin paraphernalia. Kolaportid is a covered flea market where you can buy jewellery, bric-a-brac and food.
Try traditional food: At Iceland’s many restaurants you’ll find dishes that include puffin, shark and even whale. Dairy is important to the small island, and skyr is a type of yoghurt often eaten at breakfast. Also try kleinur, similar to a doughnut.
Essential information
WHEN TO GO: Iceland Airwaves (icelandairwaves.is) takes place from October 13-17, 2010.
GETTING THERE: Iceland Express (icelandexpress.com) flies daily from London to Reykjavik.
GETTING AROUND: Reykjavik is easy to explore on foot.
VISAS: South Africans need a Schengen visa.
CURRENCY: Icelandic Kronur. 1 GBP = 186.12 ISK.
LANGUAGE: Icelandic, but everyone speaks English.
GOING OUT: A beer costs about 900 kronur.
ACCOMMODATION: Reykjavik has a mix of hostels and hotels, including CenterHotel Arnarhvoll (+354 595 8540; centrehotels.com).
GET MORE INFO AT: visitreykjavik.is
Related: Destination guide – Iceland
» Janine flew to Reykjavik with Iceland Express (0118 321 8384; icelandexpress.com), which operates a daily service from London Gatwick. Prices start from £89 one-way including taxes. The airline also operates a twice-weekly service between London Stansted and Reykjavik.
