Beaches and surf. Those are often what first springs to mind when San Sebastian is mentioned, especially if it’s an Antipodean that’s doing the mentioning. And indeed, the northern Spanish city, overlooking the Cantabrian Sea, has plenty to boast about in those departments – La Concha is regularly labelled Europe’s best city beach, while Zurriola is the stuff of legend among serious surfers.
But bronzed beauties and boards aside, there’s far more to San Sebastian than simply hanging out half naked. As unbelievable as it may sound, this is one town where keeping your clothes on is as fun as whipping them off. Well, almost.
With food, culture and after-dark scenes to match just about any other small city on the continent, it’s no surprise this coastal getaway has been handed the European Capital of Culture crown for 2016. So read on for your guide to what stands behind the sands.
A Spain in the arse
First things first, careful who you call Spanish. San Sebastian is in the heart of Basque country, the western Pyrenees region that straddles the border with France and includes the likes of Pamplona, Bilbao and Biarritz. Similar to the Catalans over in Barcelona, it’s an area where people are passionately proud of their own language and culture, while harbouring a general desire to be separate from Spain.
As such, many San Sebastian locals, or donostiarras as they’re known, would say they share more with their Basque brothers in French towns like Biarritz than their colonial overlords in Spanish capital Madrid. Everyone will speak Spanish but would much prefer, you’ll quickly realise, to banter in Basque. If you’re keen to learn the basics and earn some solidarity high fives, just remember the golden rule – every word needs to contain at least one ‘x’.
However, one similarity to the Spanish that even the most diehard separatist couldn’t deny is that San Sebastian loves a fiesta. Time your visit to coincide with one of the city’s many annual festivals and you’ll come across plenty of the old traditions – from pelota games (basically outdoors squash) to stone throwing contests, via drumming and period dress wearing, all accompanied with copious amounts of cider. Try to catch the fishing boat regattas on the first two Sundays in September, plus the Fair of Santo Tomas, on December 21.
sansebastian.co.uk/events-and-festivals
Basque in the glory
If A-list celebrities are more your thing, make sure you’re in town for one of Europe’s most glamorous cinematic feasts – the San Sebastian International Film Festival. Widely considered the biggest movie event in the Spanish-speaking world, the festival has hosted the European premieres for big-hitters as varied as Star Wars and Alfred Hitchcock’s Vertigo.
It’s back for its 61st year, from September 20-28, and on the line-up is new Jake Gyllenhaal flick Enemy, plus WW2 yarn The Railway Man, starring Colin Firth and Nicole Kidman. It’s a given that stars will be in attendance at the ‘Cool Cannes’.
P-pick up some pintxos
San Sebastian is a magnet to the sort of sweeping, exaggerated statements which are normally written off as marketing talk or lazy journalism. The difference with this Basque beauty, however, is that it beats the easy hype. The beaches really are that good. And the film festival truly is damn cool. But here’s a third one for you, the biggest of the lot: San Sebastian is the best place to eat in Europe.
There, it’s said. We know, it sounds ridiculous. But here are the facts. For starters, check out any list of the world’s top restaurants. Keep your eyes to the skies and you’ll likely spot Donostia (the town’s Basque name) eateries Arzak and Mugaritz in the top 10. Better yet, forget Tokyo or Paris, if you’re after the city with more Michelin stars per capita than anywhere else in the world, look no further than San Seb.
But so what, we hear you cry. What if you don’t want to cripple your credit card on a meal that will probably leave you hungry? Well, the best bit about eating out in San Sebastian is that it actually makes no sense to spend a fortune on the top restaurants – the cheap stuff is just so good. The local delicacy – pintxos – cost around £2.50 each and can be found on just about every street corner.
Basically the Basque version of tapas, pintxos (spot the ‘x’) are more often than not small pieces of bread generally topped with mushrooms, cheese or seafood, as well as a scrumptious sauce. From classic staples like tortilla to more decadent dining experiences, such as spider crab tarts or braised pig’s ears, pintxos tick every box on the holiday eating wishlist – delicious, reasonably priced and unique.
So make like a local and hop from bar to bar, gorging on pintxos while washing them down with txakoli, the local fizzy green wine. Find the best spots, and understand what you’re eating, on a gastronomic tour put on by Follow Me.
The old ones are the best
If you’re not sure where to go to satisfy your alcoholic appetites, a good bet is always to head into the Parte Vieja, San Sebastian’s characterful old town.
Some claim these atmospheric alleys are home to more bars per square metre than anywhere else in the world, but a lot of places make that claim. What matters is that you’ll find the lively little lanes packed with people grazing on pintxos and chugging the region’s best beverages. Calle Fermin Calbeton is often the liveliest street, with many drinkers jumping on the all-nighter train. But it’s easy to escape the boozy buzz for those wanting to find something more romantically charming. Either way, in typical Iberian style, don’t expect the action to really get going until the early hours, so try not to hit your first bar before 10pm.
Kill time with a few swigs of Basque favourite kalimotxo (what’s that? An ‘x’?), basically red wine and Coke. It sounds wrong, but it’s Basque, so you know it won’t taste wrong.
Getting there It’s usually cheapest to fly London to Barcelona with Ryanair or easyJet, then change to a different carrier, such as Vueling Airlines, for the leg to San Sebastian. A return should cost from £143.
Sandtastic sights: Other great European beach cities
San Sebastian isn’t the only great city break that lets you get some sand between your toes. Here’s three more.
Nice, France
City slicker: Wander the winding lanes of the old town and soak up the atmosphere. Swing by the city’s myriad art museums for your fix of Monet, Warhol and more, then spend your evenings in clubs and bars to suit every taste, from bohemian jazz to big name DJs.
Beach bum: There’s an array of free pebble beaches or, if you don’t mind paying a fee, 15 private beaches with bars, restaurants, changing rooms and loungers.
Flight time: About two hours from London.
Barcelona, Spain
City slicker: Don’t miss La Sagrada Familia church, an incredible feat of creativity still being built. Las Ramblas is also a must-see, a chaotic central boardwalk crammed with tarot readers and street artists, while the epic La Boqueria food market pulses at its top. Veer off the tourist trail to Carrer de la Riera Baixa for vintage boutiques.
Beach bum: Millions of sun-seekers pile on to Barcelona’s beaches, the busiest being Platja de la Nova Icària. A series of beaches spread northeast from the Port Olímpic marina, so have a wander if you’re looking for a calmer spot. There’s a small nudist section at Platja de la Mar Bella.
Flight time: About two hours from London.
Naples, italy
City slicker: The historic city centre is a World Heritage Site with a wealth of treasures to discover. We particularly like the Palazzo Donn’Anna, derelict but beautifully so, built out over the water and smack-bang next to a beach. It’s not open to the public, but makes essential snapping.
Beach bum: There are plenty of sandy stretches to choose from, so sample a few. The most scenic are bordered by the big blue on one side, and black volcanic cliffs decorated with bright houses and tumbling greenery on the other.
Flight time: About two hours and 40 minutes from London.
Photos: Getty; Thinkstock; TNT
