Watatsumi

The scene: Rigid in its design, this hotel-restaurant plays it safe with stark dark wooden tables and beige chairs. There are a few nods to its Japanese theme, as well as a school-of-fish lightshade indicating that it’s predominately sushi served here.

Bowing more to authenticity would make this place cosier, as it’s not the type of venue you would spend all night in, chatting with friends. The staff are friendly and attentive, although we do have to wait a while in between courses.

The grub: There’s an impressive mix of expected dishes – such as sea-salt edamame – and unique takes, including soft shell crab in shichimi-scented flour served with orange-ponzu. And there’s a wide range of nigiri and sashimi (raw meats and fish), including tobiko (flying fish roe), tako (octopus), hokigai (surf clams), suzuki (sea bass) and chutoro (tuna).

My friend’s salmon and yellow fin tuna sashimi are faultless, as is her main of roasted black cod. My mushroom, avocado and cucumber roles are the freshest I’ve ever tasted, while the cabbage and shitake stuffed gyozas are cooked perfectly, but lack real impact.

Possibly not the best eatery for a veggie; I put my main dish selection in the hands of the chef, but ?I’m disappointed by the unadventurous sauteed seasonal vegetables on a bed of rice. It’s tasty, but not very exciting. Our desserts – chocolate fondant with green tea ice-cream and cheesecake with raspberry sorbet are divine. Carol Driver

Behind the bar: Beer drinkers can choose from bottles of Asahi or Kirin (£3.60). The focus is more on cocktails, with three pages boasting gin, champagne and vodka- based drinks (£8). There’s also a decent selection of wines (from £18) and sake. 

Bill please: Starters from £3.70; sushi from £2 per piece; mains from £9.50; desserts from £4.50.

Verdict: Sushi buffs will be in heaven in this first-class fish restaurant. The quality ?of the food and keen staff more than makes up for its lack of atmosphere.

3/5

7 Northumberland Avenue, WC2N 5BY 
watatsumi.co.uk 
Tube: Embankment

– Carol Driver